Chaotic, carnal and congested, Thailand's capital is divided by the Chao Phraya River and is nestled in one of the world's most fertile rice-producing deltas. Bangkok's 579 square miles (1,500 sq km) are criss-crossed by a series of canals carrying passengers and cargo, its roads clotted with endless traffic jams, while the city sprawls in all directions with a hodgepodge of urban, commercial and industrial buildings. A new overland metropolitan railway speeds above the city, providing visitors with a relaxed and efficient way to observe the hustle and bustle below.

Despite its pollution and overcrowding, Bangkok is undoubtedly one of Asia's most exciting cities, and one of the world's largest, promising to reveal to each traveller the wild and untamed mysteries of the east. Khao San Road is one of the city's most vibrant streets, and is probably one of the best examples in the world of a backpacker's 'ghetto'. Day and night the short stretch of road is abuzz with activity. On the banks of the Chao Phraya visitors will find the Grand Palace as well as Wat Phra Kaew, the palace temple housing the Emerald Buddha, constructed entirely from translucent green jade. Slightly upriver are the exquisitely ornamented Royal Barges, still used today for special floating processions.

Of the 30 or so temples in Bangkok, the largest is the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, which houses an impressive statue of the deity. The famous Floating Market is a delight to visitors and well worth a visit. As the sun lurches towards the horizon in the west and the sweat cools, this city of royalty and religion comes alive with a palpable decadence. Music and dazzling neon advertise a miasma of trendy bars and nightclubs, as well as the notorious 'girlie joints' that have ensured the Patpong district its reputation for hedonism.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Address: Bangkok

Admission: Free Daily 6am to 11am

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is an escape from the Western-style shopping malls of Bangkok and a glimpse into the past, revealing the centuries' old way of life of the residents whose stilt-houses perch on the canals. Visitors can explore the market with boat trips and sample the wares of local farmers as they do so. They can also enjoy the experience of floating through one of Thailand's many river villages.

Royal Grand Palace

Address: Na Phralan Road, Phra Nakhon Bangkok

Admission: B 250 (adults); children free Daily 8.30am to 4.30pm

Telephone: (0)2 623 5500

Construction of the palace began in 1782 and was completed in time for the coronation of King Rama I, and opened in 1785 to signify the end of the Burmese invasion of Thailand. The palace itself is made up of a complex array of smaller buildings, most notably the Wat Mahatat (the Palace Temple) and the Wat Phra Keow (the Royal Chapel), which houses the famous Emerald Buddha sculpted from a single piece of jade, and one of the most revered objects in the Kingdom.

Royal Barges National Museum

Address: Arun Amarin Road, Bangkok Noi Bangkok

Admission: B 30 Daily 9am to 5pm

Telephone: (0)2 424 0004

The Royal Barges National Museum houses several decorative royal barges, the earliest of which dates back to 1357. Most of the barges served as War Vessels at one point, and were subsequently used on royal or state occasions on the Chao Phraya River. Due to their age the barges are now rarely used, but their intricate designs reflecting Thai religious beliefs and local history are of great importance to the country's heritage. The barges were last used at the end of 1999 to celebrate the king's 72nd birthday.

The Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho)

Address: 2 Sanamchai Road Bangkok

Admission: B 20 Daily 8am to 5pm (closed from 12pm to 1pm)

Telephone: (0)2 222 5910 or (0)2 226 2942

Situated adjacent to the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho is Bangkok's oldest, largest and most famous temple. The grounds of Wat Pho contain over 1,000 statues of Buddha, and the temple houses one of Thailand's most spectacular sights, the Reclining Buddha - a 157ft (48m) long and 49ft (15m) high statue that is gold-plated and inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl on the soles of its feet. In the 19th century King Rama III turned Wat Pho into a centre of learning and visitors today can still have a massage and learn about the ancient art of Thai Medicine.

Jim Thompson's House

Address: 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road Bangkok

Admission: B 100 (proceeds to Bangkok's School for the Blind) Daily 9am to 5pm (last tour leaves at 4.30pm)

Telephone: 662 216 7368

American silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson deserves most of the credit for the current popularity of Thai silk around the world. His fame increased when, in 1967, Thompson disappeared in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia under mysterious circumstances. He has never been heard of since. The house itself is an excellent example of Thai residential architecture, and inside is a display of his Oriental art and antique collection, as well as an array of his personal belongings.

Kanchanaburi

Address: Bangkok

Admission: JEATH War Museum: B 30 JEATH War Museum: daily 8.30am to 6pm

Eighty miles (130km) west of Bangkok, the town of Kanchanaburi has secured its position of infamy as the original site of the Bridge Over The River Kwai, where during World War II allied prisoners of war were used by the Japanese to build the Death Railway and thousands died at the hands of their captors. With its modern hotels and welcoming air, Kanchanaburi seems an unlikely setting, but the bridge is still in use and the graves of the Allied soldiers are testament to the town's unfortunate past. Worth a visit is the JEATH (Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland) War Museum in Kanchanaburi, which recounts experiences in the Japanese POW camps during the War. The Sai Yok Yai Waterfall in the Sai Yok National Park is a place of idyllic beauty and makes a good excursion from Kanchanaburi; the falls are widely celebrated in Thai poetry and songs.

The Golden Buddha (Wat Traimit)

Address: Traimit Rd Bangkok

Admission: 20B donation Open daily from 9am to 5pm

Dating back to the 13th century, Wat Traimit stands nearly 10ft (3m) tall, weighs over 5 tons and is believed to be solid cast gold. It was discovered by accident in 1957 when an old stucco image was dropped by a crane, shattering the plaster shell to reveal the brilliantly shining gold underneath. The statue is breathtaking and is thought to have come from the Sukhothai period when it was covered with plaster to hide it from the Burmese invaders.

National Museum

Address: Na Phra That Rd Bangkok

Admission: 40B Open Wednesday to Sunday from 9am - 4pm. Free English-language tours: Buddhism culture on Wednesday 9.30am; Art, culture, religion on Thursday 9.30am

Telephone: (0)2 224 1333

Originally built in 1782, the National Museum is located within the grounds of the Royal Palace, just a 15 minute walk from the palace of the Emerald Buddha, and displays thousands of artefacts ranging all the way from Neolithic times to present day. It is known as Thailand's central treasury of art and archaeology. Many of the actual buildings are works of art themselves, surrounded by brightly-coloured pavilions and boasting some of Southeast Asia's most ornate jewellery and historical treasures.

Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing

Address: Sao Chingcha Square Bangkok

Admission: B20 donation Open daily from 9am to 9pm

Telephone: (0)2 222 0280

This temple is among the oldest and largest in Bangkok and is home to the beautiful 14th-century Phra Buddha Shakyamuni, a Buddha image that was brought from Sukhothai. It is also known for its exquisite wall paintings which were done during the reign of Rama III. The enormous arch made of teak outside the wat is all that remains of an original swing which was used to celebrate and thank Shiva for a bountiful rice harvest. Teams of men would ride the swing on arcs as high as 82ft (25m) into the air, grabbing at bags of silver coins with their teeth. The swing ceremony was discontinued in 1932 due to countless injuries and deaths, but the thanksgiving festival is still celebrated in mid-December after the rice harvest.

Wat Benchamabophit (The Marble Temple)

Address: Si Ayutthaya Rd Bangkok

Admission: 20B Open daily from 8am to 5pm

Telephone: (0)2 281 2501

Wat Benchamabophit, also known as the Marble Temple, is constructed of white Carrara marble and is known as one of Bangkok's most beautiful wats where even the courtyard is paved with polished white marble. The temple's name literally means 'The Temple of the fifth King located nearby Dusit Palace'. Built of Italian marble and designed by Prince Naris, a half-brother of the king, it is unique in that, unlike older complexes, there is no wihaan or chedi dominating the grounds. The wat houses many Buddha images representing various regional styles. Inside the ornate Ordination Hall (Ubosot) is a Sukhothai-style Buddha statue named Phra Buddhajinaraja, and buried underneath this statue lie the ashes of King Rama V.

Vimanmek Mansion Museum

Address: 192 Ratchavitee Rd, Dusit Palace grounds Bangkok

Admission: 50B; free to visitors with a 200B ticket to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo Open daily from 9.30am to 4pm. Classical Thai dance, folk dance, and martial art demonstrations given daily at 10.30am and 2pm

Telephone: (0)2 281 8166

Built by King Rama V in 1901, the exquisite golden teakwood mansion, also known as Vimanmek Palace, is located in the Dusit Palace complex. It was restored in 1982 for Bangkok's bicentennial and King Rama IX granted permission to transform Vimanmek Mansion into a museum to commemorate King Rama V by displaying his photographs, personal art and handicrafts, and to serve as a showcase of the Thai national heritage. The informative hour-long tour takes visitors through a series of apartments and rooms, a staggering 81 in total, in what is said to be the largest teak building in the world. It is now a major tourist attraction and a definite must for anyone visiting the intriguing city of Bangkok.

Chatuchak market

Address: Bangkok

Admission: Weekends from 8am to 6pm

Chatuchak or JJ market is said to be the largest flea market in the world. 'Organized' along narrow grid lines under tin roofs this enormous market is packed tight with all of Thailand's wears. Around 15,000 stalls are loosely categorised into clothing, crafts, food, and animal sections and it is probable that shoppers will quickly become disoriented. Some of Thailand's illegally traded animals are sold here and vendors are quick to spot signs of oncoming raids. Yet a host of legal but bizarre goods are traded; cock fighting roosters, monkeys, fake designer gear and antiques are just the tip of the iceberg. The market is only open on the weekends from 8 am to 6 pm and on Fridays for wholesalers. It is easily reached by the sky train from the Mo Chit station and by subway.

Muay Thai

Address: Bangkok

Fight fans will get a kick out of Thailand's national sport Muay Thai. The matches can be best watched at the Rajadamnern stadium but be warned, the prices for foreigners or farang are much more than local's. Usually less than 10 matches are arranged for a night but the brutality of the style means that some of these result in quick KOs. The events are a mix of traditional Thai music and traditional pre-match customs before the hard hitting fight that utilises elbows, knees, fists, and shins to knock out the opponent. Several types of tickets are available, the more expensive fight floor, and the more rowdy informal gambling area on the second tier. Tourists should watch their hand movements as they can be interpreted as willingness to bet. Fights can be seen on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays in the evening. Lumpini Park also showcases fights to a more touristy audience.

Tiger Temple

Address: Bangkok

A once in a (possibly short) lifetime chance to pet tigers can be arranged from the travel agencies in Khaosan in Bangkok or from nearby Kanchanaburi. Visitors are guided to a large dirt quarry where several grown tigers and a host of cubs lie relaxing along with several monks and guides. Visitors, separated by a thin single chain, are led past, one at a time, to sit with and pet the tigers. Rumour has it that the tigers are given sedatives although some argue they are under the meditational spell of the monks or just used to humans. None of it is apparently enough to guarantee safety as an occasional mauling has been known to happen. The admission is about 300 baht and the tigers can usually be visited from 1 pm to 4 pm daily.

Monkey Temple, Lopburi

Address: Bangkok

An easy day trip out of Bangkok is the two and half hour, 150 km (100 mile), train ride to the Monkey Temple in the town of Lopburi. The animal kingdom hierarchy is reversed here as the temple gives the monkeys free roam and food. Often novelty turns into nervousness as visitors are followed by crowds of the impolite inhabitants. Keep watch of loose items like glasses, purses, and especially food as the monkeys are keen pickpockets and they bite. November is the Monkey Festival in Lopburi but it is interesting to visit year-round.

Ayutthaya

Address: Bangkok

This is the former capital of Siam from 1350 until mid 18th century and at one time was one of the largest cities in the world. The capital was relocated to Bangkok in 1768 when the Burmese army destroyed much of Ayutthaya. Today tourists needn't imagine too much to experience splendour of the old capital as many of the enormous structures are still there. Multiple busses (a bit over an hour) and trains arrive daily from Bangkok and a boat up the Chao Phraya River to Ayutthaya can be organised through travel agencies. Although many organised tours in Thailand can be a frustrating experience, a tour guide here can give some fascinating history to the already impressive wats. This is an easy way to experience some of the ancient history of Siam as Bangkok is relatively new.

Children's Discovery Museum

Address: Chatuchak Park Bangkok

Admission: B70 (adults); B50 (children) Open Tuesday to Friday from 9am – 5pm; Saturday and Sunday from 10am – 6pm. Closed Mondays

Telephone: 02 272 4575

Featuring eight different sections, the Children's Discovery Museum in Bangkok provides hands on experience into science, nature, culture and society. Featuring a Body and Mind Gallery, a Culture and Society Gallery and a Technology Gallery, children can learn about a multitude of sciences in an interesting and enjoyable way.

Dusit Zoo

Address: Rama V Road, Dusit Bangkok

Admission: B100 (adults); B50 (children) Open daily from 8am – 6pm

Telephone: 02 282 7111-3

Built by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) as his private garden adjacent to the royal palace, the Dusit Zoo is Thailand's oldest zoo. This zoo boasts an animal hospital, zoo museum and educational centre, sightseeing train, activity ground and cafeteria. Kids will love exploring everything that the Dusit Zoo has to offer and meeting animals such as tigers, monkeys, penguins and camels.

Siam Ocean World

Address: Basement floor, Siam Paragon Shopping Centre Bangkok

Admission: B450 (adults); B280 (children) Open daily from 9am – 10pm

Located in the Siam Paragon Shopping Centre, the Siam Ocean World is one of the largest aquariums in Southeast Asia and features seven different zones; from weird and wonderful and deep reef, to living ocean and rocky shore. The aquarium features 30,000 marine animals, including Oriental Small Clawed otters, ragged-tooth sharks, stingrays and giant groupers. Children will simply love Siam Ocean World.

Snake Farm (Thai Red Cross Farm)

Address: Corner of Henry Dunant and Rama IV Roads Bangkok

Admission: B70 each Open Monday to Friday from 8.30am – 4.30pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 8.30 – 12pm. Show times: Monday to Friday at 11am and 3.30pm. Weekends and holidays: 11am

Originally set up to extract the venom from snakes to make anti-venom and research the venom, the Snake Farm is the place to take the kids if they're interested in these slithering creatures. Featuring Cobras, Malayan Pit Vipers, King Cobras, Banded Kraits and Russell Vipers, the Snake Farm educates the public on snakes and safety surrounding them.

Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium

Address: Rotfai Gardens, BTS Mochit Bangkok

Admission: Free. Bicycles can be hired for B30 per day Open daily from 8.30am – 4.30pm. Closed Mondays

Telephone: 02 272 4359

Located between the Queen Sirikit Gardens and the Children's Discovery Museum, this massive enclosure with rockeries, plants, ferns and a waterfall features some of the most dazzling beautiful butterflies in Thailand. Boasting dozens of species, including rare butterflies, looking up at the dome at any given moment, visitors can see over 500 butterflies, such as the Golden Birdwing or Siam Tree Nymph. The Queen Sirikit Gardens are a wonderful place to take a walk and feature magnificently coloured flowers, mazes, ponds and shady trees. Visitors who come here can enjoy a wonderful day of stunning gardens and scenery, butterfly spotting and even picnicking.

Songkran Festival

Where: Citywide in the streets, temples and wats,Bangkok

When: 13 - 15 April, annually

The traditional rites of Songkran involve dousing everyone around you in water as a symbol of cleansing and purification at the start of the Thai New Year. Songkran is celebrated nation-wide around Thailand with great gusto, and equally enthusiastically in the capital city, Bangkok. The fun-filled festival is held for about three days, centred on wats and temples where images of Buddha are bathed and the elderly in the community are symbolically washed by the youngsters. After the ceremonials, most people take to the baking hot streets for a merry, wet free-for-all. In Bangkok the best places to experience the festivities are on the square in front of the Grand Palace where the Phra Buddha Sihing is bathed; the Wisutkasat, where a Miss Songkran Beauty pageant is held; and Khao San Road in Banglampoo where jovial water-throwing reaches new heights in battles between locals and tourists.

Royal Ploughing Ceremony

Where: Phramane Ground, near the Grand Palace,Bangkok

When: May 2010 TBA

A Thai traditional ceremony that is popular with tourists and attended by the King is the annual Ploughing Ceremony, which draws many of the country's farmers to Bangkok to usher in the start of the new rice-growing season. The ceremony is held in the heart of the city and dates back more than 2,500 years. The chief event is a procession in which a red and gold sacred plough is drawn by flower-bedecked bulls, followed by drummers in green costumes, and others blowing conch shells or carrying baskets filled with rice-seed. After the ploughing and ritual feeding of the bulls, rice seed is scattered and the watching crowds rush onto the field to gather some grains for good luck, and a good harvest.

Thailand International Swan Boat Races

Where: The Bangsai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre on the Chao Phraya River,Bangkok

When: September 2010 TBA

Racing the graceful oriental Swan Boats has become an international sport with more than 20 teams, including England, Australia and the United States, participating in the annual world championships held in November in Bangkok, on the river near the ancient capital of Siam, Ayutthaya. The elegant swan boats are long, narrow round-bottomed boats with upturned bows intricately carved that resemble swan heads, while the stern represents a flowing tail.

Bangkok Marathon

Where: ,Bangkok

When: November 2010 TBA

The Bangkok Marathon is one of the toughest races in the world due to the heat and humidity the runners have to endure. No record times here unfortunately, but it still attracts plenty of serious runners. The race is divided into three categories: the 26 mile (42.195km) marathon, the 13 mile (21.10km) half marathon and the 6.5 mile (10.55km) quarter marathon.

Silom Soi 4 Halloween

Where: Silom Soi 4,Bangkok

When: 31 October annually

There's nothing Thais love more than a good festival, and what better way to celebrate Halloween than with a street party in Bangkok's trendy pedestrianised bar strip, Silom Soi 4. Many of the bars, clubs and restaurants along this strip combine themed decorations with promotions, resulting in a great night out!

Chinese New Year

Where: Chinatown,Bangkok

When: 14 February 2010

Bangkok boasts one of the world's largest Chinatowns and the best way to experience its cultural legacy is take part in its annual celebration. Each new lunar year, usually starting in February, the Chinese celebrate its arrival as tens of thousands tightly pack into Chinatown shoulder to shoulder. Seas of red clad people, worn to bring luck in the new year, drift with the current of the crowd between attractions. Papier-mâché lion dances, moon cakes, firecrackers and general merriment are all part of the fun but the biggest event is a visit from a royal family member which is to the great pride of the city's Chinese. A pickpocket's paradise, tourists should be careful.

Pra Chan Pier

Address: Pra Chan Pier, next to Thammasat University Bangkok

Food Type: Thai

Next to Thammasat University this claustrophobic riverside market has some of the best food in town. On the western edge of the old walkway traditional Thai food is served buffet style on wooden planked decks over the water. On the other side is a surprisingly quiet and cool Thai pasta house and bakery popular with students.

Phranakorn Bar & Gallery

Address: 58/2 Soi Damnoenklang Tai Bangkok

Food Type: Thai

Across the Ratchadamnoen Klang road from Banglamphu district is a popular but low key hangout for the local trend setters. Most come for the ambiance rather than the food as the first floor usually hosts a live band, the second an art gallery, the third a pool hall, and the fourth an open air terrace with beautiful views, all filled with cheerful diners and drinkers.

Le Banyan

Address: 59 Sukhumvit Soi 8 Bangkok

Food Type: French

This upscale restaurant epitomises elegance with white clapboard walls adorned with Thai carvings, old photos, and prints of early Bangkok. The flagship dish is pressed duck with goose liver, shallots, wine and Armagnac to make the sauce. Other fine choices include a rack of lamb a la Provençal and salmon with lemongrass. Open Monday to Saturday for dinner. Reservations advisable.

May Kaidee

Address: At the eastern terminus of Banglamphu & Khao San Road Bangkok

Food Type: Vegetarian

A firm favourite in Bangkok's dining scene, May Kaidee is really informal, but serves some of the most mouth-watering food the city has to offer. Known for serving the best massaman curry in Thailand and an array of dishes, from sweet green curry to good stir-fries and black sticky-rice with mango for dessert, this eatery is a must! Open daily from 7am to 11pm. Cash only.

The Mango Tree

Address: 37 Soi Tantawan Bangkok

Food Type: Thai

This 80-year-old Siamese restaurant house features its very own tropical garden and offers a quiet retreat from Bangkok's chaotic Patpong area. The food may not be authentic, but it's delicious and the diverse menu with choices such as mild, green chicken curry and crispy spring rolls won't leave guests disappointed. Live traditional music and classic Thai decorative touches create a wonderfully charming atmosphere. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations advisable.

Somboon Seafood

Address: 169/7-11 Surawongse Rd Bangkok

Food Type: Seafood

This restaurant may not have the best, or indeed any, atmosphere for that matter, but the food is simply delicious and well worth it for those who are willing to make the sacrifice. A popular eatery, Somboon Seafood is regularly packed with friendly staff and with such a vast menu, guests will find themselves coming back time and again. The restaurant also features a large aquarium full of live seafood such as prawn, fish, lobster and crab. The house specialty, chilli crab curry, comes highly recommended. Open daily from 4pm to 11pm. Credit cards not accepted.

Cabbages and Condoms

Address: 10 Sukhumvit Soi 12 Bangkok

Food Type: Thai

This aptly named restaurant helps fund population control, AIDS awareness and a host of rural development programs. Set in a large compound, the two-story restaurant offers guests both indoor and outdoor dining, the latter being decorated with fairy lights creating a wonderfully romantic atmosphere. The kai hor bai teoy (fried boneless chicken wrapped in pandan leaves with a dark sweet soy sauce for dipping) is an exciting dish for the more adventurous palates. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations advisable.

Dosa King

Address: 153/7, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi -11/1 Bangkok

Food Type: Indian

The very popular South Indian aromatic cuisine known as Dosa is a Punjabi dish traditionally eaten with the hands, consisting of a rice and lentil pancake, crepe or tortilla traditionally folded with a potato curry or other savoury filling, and served with a vegetable and lentil broth called sambar. Dosa King is ideal for a quick and healthy meal for those exploring Sukhumvit. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Ricky's

Address: 22 Th Phra Athit, Banglamphu Bangkok

Just around the corner from the bustling backpacker district the quiet coffee shop is a great stop for breakfast or early lunch. The dark wooden interior transports diners to old Siam although omelettes and baguettes are often welcome tastes of the west.

Lemongrass

Address: 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Bangkok

Food Type: Local

Popular with Westerners and just a short walk from the skytrain, Lemongrass serves some of Bangkok's finest Nouvelle Thai cuisine. Favourites on the menu include pomelo salad and chicken satay. The tom yang kung (a spicy sweet-and-sour prawn soup with ginger shoots) is delicious and comes highly recommended. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Bookings are advisable.