It may be a little country, but it is a lovely one, so it is sad that Belgium is often overlooked when travellers plan a trip to Europe. Tucked between the desirable and obvious destinations of London, Paris and Amsterdam, Belgium is usually treated as a stepping stone to the English Channel, or, at most, a quick stop-over for a look-see in the capital, Brussels.

Beyond the city of Brussels with its historic Gothic buildings and tall European Union office blocks, is a treasure-trove of undiscovered lazy seaside towns, and the inland wooded gorges of the splendid Ardennes, sprinkled with medieval castles and steeped in folklore. The medieval city of Bruges has character and charm galore with a rich architectural heritage, graceful canals, winding waterways and cobbled streets, and is a favourite with visitors. Belgium is a country that has inspired many artists and writers with the charm of its Gothic cathedrals, town halls, gabled guildhouses and rich museums.

After a busy day exploring it all, evenings are best spent experiencing Belgium's fantastic cuisine and delighting in the country's variety of 300-odd brews of beer. Belgians have a reputation for their gracious hospitality, no doubt due in part to the country's location, which has created an international crossroads for commerce and culture. Despite this, Belgium and its distinct regions of Flemish Flanders (north) and French Wallonia (south) has proudly preserved its traditions and identity.

Grand Place (Central Square)

Address: Brussels

The Grand Place is the heart of Brussels and has been since the Middle Ages. One of Europe's more beautiful squares, it lies in the centre of a confusion of small cobbled streets, and is surrounded by richly decorated 17th century Baroque Guildhouses, various Neo-Gothic buildings and museums. It is, however, the town hall, a magnificent Gothic building that dominates the square. Markets, flower stalls and various events are held here and this is the place to get to grips with the essence of Brussels, perhaps over a local delicacy at a pavement café.

Mannekin-Pis

Address: Brussels

The distinctive statue has been described as the Eiffel Tower of Brussels and tourists throng the streets in search of the tiny urinating urchin. The bronze Mannekin is thought to represent the 'irreverent spirit' of Brussels, but there are numerous tales about its beginnings. Started by Louis XV of France many years ago, it has been the custom of foreign countries, companies, visiting dignitaries or charities to donate an outfit to the Mannekis-Pis and the little boy is usually decked out in the latest costume; previous costumes are displayed in the City of Brussels Museum.

Hôtel de Ville

Address: Ilôt Sacré Brussels

Admission: Adults 3EUR, children 2EUR

Brussels' city hall is rated as the most splendid civic building in Europe. The foundations were laid in 1402 and it survived the mercifully inaccurate bombing during World War 2 when most of the other buildings on the Grand Place were destroyed. The façade is embellished with gargoyles and images of nobility while the intricate 100 metre-high tower is resolved by a fine statue of St Michel, patron saint of Brussels. Tours are available - well worth it to see the fine tapestries and miscellaneous works of art inside.

Galeries Royales Saint Hubert

Address: Rue des Bouchers Brussels

Telephone: (02) 512 2116

Mall lovers everywhere should make a pilgrimage to the Galeries Royales Saint Hubert, the very first shopping arcade in Europe. Opened in 1847, the arcade became a draw card for the cream of 19th century society and today continues to inspire shoppers and browsers alike. The building itself is an architectural marvel: arcaded shop fronts across two floors are separated by pilasters, conceived in a Cinquecento style. The roof above is made of arched glass panes connected by a delicate cast-iron framework - very photogenic! In between the various shops you'll find cafes, restaurants, a theatre and even a cinema.

Palais Royal

Address: Brussels

Admission: July to September

Belgium's magnificent Royal Palace was built in the 19th century as the official residence of the Belgian Royal family although today is used for official functions and other ceremonial purposes. The palace is positioned in front of Brussels Park, itself well worth exploring, and directly opposite the modern Parliament building as if symbolically representing the country's system of government, a constitutional monarchy. Tours are only possible in summer and commence after the National Holiday on 21 July. Inside are a multitude of historical artefacts and some impressive contemporary art, commissioned by the queen in 2002.

Royal Museums of Fine Arts

Address: Rue de la Régence 3 Brussels

Admission: 10h00 to 17h00

Telephone: (0)2 508 3211

An unmissable attraction for art lovers: the twin Museum of Ancient Art and the Museum of Modern Art are Brussels' premier art museums. They feature art from the 15th to 18th centuries (ancient) and 19th century to the present day (modern). The larger of the two is the Museum of Ancient Art, opened in 1887, featuring the best collection of Flemish art in the world; highlights include works by van Dyck and over 20 paintings by Rubens. The Museum of Modern Art was opened in 1984 and includes fine examples from Belgium's best artists over the past century, plus modern legends such as Francis Bacon.

The Atomium

Address: Boulevard du Centenaire Brussels

Admission: Adults EUR9, children over 6 years EUR2 Daily 9am to 8pm (April to August); 10am to 6pm (September to March)

Telephone: (0)2 475 4777

Forget the Mannekin Pis - this is the structure that best symbolises Brussels and certainly the one locals are more proud of. Built for the 1958 World Fair, the Atomium takes its shape and proportions from the internal lattice of an iron atom. There are nine spheres linked by escalators and each contains exhibition rooms hosting a rapidly changing series of exhibitions. There is a great view from the deck of the uppermost sphere.

Belgian Centre of Comic Strip Art

Address: Rue des Sables 20 Brussels

Admission: Adults EUR7.50, children EUR3 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday

Telephone: (0)2 219 1980

Belgium's love of wacky humour and comic book art come together in this wonderful museum housed in a fabulous Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta. You'll see plenty of its most famous subject, Hergé's Tintin, as well as the Smurfs and art from over 670 cartoonists. This is a temple to cartooning, now considered an art form worthy of serious consideration, and so the museum aims to trace the history and development of the discipline rather than to entertain.

Museum of Cocoa and Chocolate

Address: 13 Grand Place Brussels

Admission: Adults EUR5.50, children under 12 free

Telephone: (0)2 514 20 48

The Chocolate Museum is a fitting tribute to both the history of the cocoa bean and the Belgian's famed love of chocolate. The first chocolatier in the city appeared in the 1600s and today Belgians eat an average of 9kg a year! Visit on Tuesday to Friday between 10am and 3pm and you'll to see the master chocolatier at work and get to taste his handiwork.

Royal Museum of Central Africa

Address: Leuvensesteenweg 1302 Brussels

Admission: Adults EUR4, children under 12 free Tuesday to Friday 10am to 5pm; Saturday to Sunday 10am to 6pm

Telephone: (0)2 769 5211

Under the direction of King Leopold, the Belgian Congo returned fantastic riches to Belgium in the 19th century, yet the people of that colony paid a terrible price. This museum was founded to explore the relationship between European colonial powers and the people they subjugated. Recent exhibits have broadened the museum's focus to include environmental issues and ethnography in Africa, Asia and South America. The museum is situated on beautiful grounds in the Flemish commune of Tervuren, just outside of Brussels.

Brussels Children's Museum

Address: Rue du Bourgmestre, 15 Brussels

Admission: EUR6.85 per person Open daily to school children by appointment. Open to public on Wednesdays 2.30 – 5pm. Closed 24 and 31 December and weekends in July. Annual closure from 1 August to 12 September.

Telephone: 02 640 0107

With interactive and educational exhibits, the Brussels Children's Museum is a wonderful place to take the kids to enjoy learning and playing. From learning about colours, careers, the body and even watching shows on themed exhibits, children will be entertained from start to finish.

Bruparck

Address: Eeuwfeestlaan 20Bd du Centenaire Brussels

Telephone: 02 474 8383

This village was originally created for the 1958 World Exhibition and houses some of Brussels' most popular tourist attractions. The Oceadium water park, Mini Europe, a Kineopolis cinema and the world-renowned Atomium are all located here, making this a great day out for the whole family with plenty of eateries to stop and grab some refreshments and a bit of fuel for the next attraction.

Mini Europe

Address: Bruparck, Eeuwfeestlaan 20Bd du Centenaire Brussels

Admission: EUR12.50 (adults); EUR9.70 (children) Open from 21 March to 30 June from 9.30am – 6pm; 1 July – 31 August from 9.30am – 8pm; September from 9.30am – 6pm; 1 October to 3 January from 10am – 6pm

Telephone: 02 478 05 50

Located next to another one Brussels' most popular tourist attractions, the Atomium, Mini Europe contains miniatures of all of Europe's favourite attractions at a scale of 1:25. Approximately 350 attractions can be seen from around 80 cities. Mini Europe is one of Brussels' leading attractions, bringing in over 300,000 visitors annually.

Walibi Belgium

Address: rue J. Dechamps 9, Boulevard de l'Europe Brussels

Admission: EUR29 (adults); EUR24 (children) May: Wednesday to Sunday from 10am-6pm; June and July: open daily from 10am-6pm; August: 10am-8pm; September and October on Sunday from 10am-6pm

Telephone: 010 42 1500

With dozens of exciting and thrilling rides, children will be simply captivated at Walibi Belgium Amusement Park. With terrifying roller coasters and children's favourite cartoon characters such as Tweetie Pie and Bugs Bunny, your children will love you for taking them here.

Museum of Natural Sciences of Belgium

Address: Vautierstraat 29 Brussels

Admission: EUR7 (adults); EUR4.50 (children). Free admission first Wednesday of each month from 1 pm Open Tuesday to Friday from 9:30 – 5pm; Saturday and Sunday from 10am – 6pm. Closed Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December

Telephone: 02 627 42 27

Featuring fascinating displays and exhibitions, kids will enjoy a trip to the Museum of Natural Sciences of Belgium, and in particular the dinosaur section, the largest of its kind in Europe. Other points of interest for younger visitors are the PaleoLab where fossils and replicas of mammoths are on display, as well as the Evolution and Animal Kingdom sections.

Bonsoir Clara

Address: 22 Rue Antoine Dansaert Brussels

Food Type: International

Located in the fashion district of Brussels, this trendy restaurant offers diners a selection of both traditional and international cuisine. The menu features a variety of Belgian, Italian and Asian dishes including cold pea soup, fish lasagne, roast lamb and cod carpaccio. Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner, and for dinner on weekends. Reservations recommended.

La Maison du Cygne

Address: 2 Rue Charles Buls Brussels

Food Type: Local

Once frequented by the likes of Karl Marx and the Belgian Socialist Party, this 17th century house now offers diners a traditional ambience, enhanced by richly coloured décor and polished walnut walls. The menu features mainly Belgian and French cuisine including lobster salad with apples and a curry sauce, beef fillet with a three pepper sauce, and lemon-scented codfish. Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner, and for dinner on Saturday. Reservations recommended.

Les Trois Couleurs

Address: 453 Avenue de Tervuren, Woluwé-Saint-Pierre Brussels

Food Type: French

Dining at Les Trois Couleurs is gorgeous throughout the year - in winter guests can enjoy the spacious, neat dining room and in summer the terrace garden is perfect. This elegant and romantic restaurant's menu offers French cuisine such as a prawn and caviare salad, or poached brill. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Reservations essential.

Aux Armes De Bruxelles

Address: 13 Rue des Bouchers Brussels

Food Type: Local

Founded in 1921, this is a true Brussels legend that serves the freshest of mussels and finest of French fries. Approach the moules et frite Bruxelles-style by eating the first mussel with your fingers and then use the shell to eat the rest. The entire menu is excellent, especially the beef stewed in beer and the delicious waterzooï. The front room's vintage Art Nouveau interior is delightful. Open for lunch and dinner daily, reservations recommended.

Comme Chez Soi

Address: 23 Place Rouppe Brussels

Food Type: French

This gourmet pilgrimage site never fails to impress, with exceptional quality, refined flavours and an ambient Art Nouveau design. The restaurant boasts both a warmly welcoming atmosphere and truly memorable dishes, such as red mullet fillet with karides or beef fillet with black truffles. For dessert, try the chocolate cake with almonds and hazelnuts. Advanced booking is essential. Closed on Sunday and Monday, and on Wednesday for lunch.

La Truffe Noire

Address: 12 Boulevard de la Cambre Brussels

Food Type: French

For those with a passion for truffles, pay a visit to this shrine created by Italian chef Luigi Ciciriello. It is a friendly establishment renowned for serving superb truffle-focused dishes in its warm and relaxed environment. Don't miss the carpaccio truffles with olive oil and parmesan for starters and the roast duck with Canary Island bananas for mains. Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, only open Monday and Sunday for reservations of 30 or more guests.

La Quincaillerie

Address: 45 Rue du Page Brussels

Food Type: Gastropubs

Housed in a former hardware store, La Quincaillerie has all the raw materials for a fabulous dining experience. The staff are friendly if slightly frenetic; the interior's Horta-inspired industrial qualities are striking; and the food is quite simply fantastic, especially the impeccably fresh seafood. Open for dinner all week, and lunch Monday to Friday. Bookings essential well in advance.

Raconte-Moi des Salades

Address: 19 Place du Châtelain

Food Type: International

If you love salad and enjoy healthy eating in a trendy setting then make a bee-line for this fun and great value eatery on the banks of the Ixelles. Portions are generous and flavours truly inventive. The carpaccios are justly celebrated and the pastas are also perfectly prepared. Al fresco dining is the order of the day during summer. Closed Sundays. Book ahead.

Les Brassins

Address: 36 Rue Keyenveld Brussels

Food Type: Local

Belgian brasseries are scattered throughout Brussels so it's hard to tell which are truly outstanding and worth seeking out - we've heard consistently good reports about this local secret, tucked away at the end of a back street in Ixelles. Enjoy tasting some of the 50 local brews while tucking into hearty dishes like rabbit cooked in cherry beer, or the meatloaf with mustard sauce. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.

Chez Leon

Address: 18 Rue des Bouchers Brussels

Food Type: Local

Don't be put off by the picture menu and touristy look, this is the real deal! For celebrated mussel dishes, as well as local fare such as rabbit stewed in kriek (cherry) beer or stoemp (bubble and squeak), the original Chez Leon (near the Grand Place - watch out for imitations!) is the perfect place to dine. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.