India Travel Guide
Since the first civilisations developed on the banks of the Indus river almost 5,000 years ago, India has given birth to Buddhism and Hinduism, been touched by the empire of Alexander the Great, seen the ancient empires of the Mauryas and Guptas rise and fall, and has traded with Pharaohs and Caesars. An invasion by the Huns scattered its people until the sweeping hand of Islam saw new kingdoms rise, heralding the era of the Sultans. Defeat came again as the Mogul Emperors marched over the mountains and into the Punjab. The decline of the Mogul Empire gave way to the Marathas, who consolidated control of India just in time for the arrival of the British. The sun finally set on the British Empire as India reclaimed independence in 1947, heralding a new age of democracy.
India is a feast for the senses; where the air is heavy with the scent of jasmine and dancers trail frenetic melodies in colourful silk saris. Its cooks compose dishes from a palette of exotic spices that may leave a lingering taste of saffron or aniseed. In India's cities, the hardship of slum-living competes with the cacophony of seemingly endless traffic and a myriad of other textures, colours and movements all jostling for attention. India can be overwhelming to the senses, but its variety is part of its charm.
Holders of multiple-entry Tourist Visas (visa type code "T"), with a validity ranging from above three months and up to 10 years, are no longer required to leave a gap of at least two months between visits unless they are nationals from Afghanistan, China, Iran, Pakistan, Iraq, Sudan and Bangladesh.
Note that a yellow fever vaccination certificate is required, if arriving in India within six days of leaving or transiting through heavily infected areas. Also note that the following areas of India are restricted, and require that visitors obtain a permit BEFORE entering them: (Protected Areas) parts of the state of Manipur, parts of the state of Mizoram, parts of the state of Arunachal Pradesh, the whole state of Nagaland, the whole State of Sikkim, parts of the state of Uttaranchal, parts of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, parts of the state of Rajasthan, parts of the state of Himachal Pradesh; (Restricted Areas) the whole of the union territory of Andaman and Nicobar Islands, part of the state of Sikkim. If surface travel is involved, and nationals travel via restricted areas, they require a "pass" issued by either the Foreigners Regional Registration Office (located in each major Indian city), or the Superintendent of Police (located in each Indian district), or the diplomatic representation of India in Bhutan or Nepal.
NOTE: It is highly recommended that your passport has at least six months validity remaining after your intended date of departure from your travel destination. Immigration officials often apply different rules to those stated by travel agents and official sources.
Address: On Netaji Subhash Marg, near Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi. Entrance from Lahore Gate or Chatta Chowk Delhi
Admission: Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 4pm
The Red Fort, known locally as
, is Delhi's signature attraction, rising high
above the clamour of Old Delhi as a reminder of the power and
prosperity of the Mogul Empire. The massive sandstone walls were
built in the 17th century to keep out marauding invaders, and still
dominate the city's skyline today. Inside is an array of exquisite
buildings, which once provided the living quarters for Shah Jehan,
his courtiers, family and staff of three thousand. Visitors can
marvel at the intricate decoration and only imagine the scenes here
at the empire's height, when the walls were studded with precious
stones and a 'stream of paradise' drove an ingenious air
conditioning system. The fort was the scene of the Indian Uprising
of 1857 and the mighty Lahore Gate, on the west side of the fort,
remains a potent symbol of India's fight for independence. There
are frequent sound and light shows in the evenings at the fort but
they are conducted in Hindi; some audio guides are sometimes
available to translate into French and English. The fort is vast
and there is a lot to explore so it is best to allow a few hours
for this famous attraction; seeing everything means covering quite
a lot of ground so come prepared to do some walking.
Address: Matya Mahal, Bho Jala – a short walk west of the Red Fort Delhi
Admission: Free, but there may be a charge for cameras. Open daily from dawn to dusk; closed during prayer times
Shah Jehan, the architect of the Red Fort and much of Old Delhi,
built Jama Masjid between 1644 and 1656. This grand structure is
situated on a hill a few hundred yards west of the Red Fort, and
towers over the mayhem of Old Delhi's sprawling streets. Jama
Masjid is India's largest mosque, and can hold 25,000 worshippers
at one time. Wide red sandstone steps lead to entrances on the
north, south and east sides of the mosque. Inside is a massive
courtyard, dominated by two red-and-white striped sandstone
minarets that cap the main prayer hall on the west side (facing
Mecca). There are smaller towers at each corner of the mosque, and
energetic visitors can climb the 122 narrow steps of the southern
one to be rewarded with magnificent views of Old and New Delhi.
Those wearing shorts or skirts can hire a to cover their legs; women wearing T-shirts should bring a scarf to cover their shoulders; you will be required to leave your shoes at the entrance. Tourists frequently complain that the people managing the mosque are rude and try to get as much money as possible out of visitors by charging for things like shoe storage and modesty dresses they insist women wear even if they are appropriately clad. The best way to deal with these inconveniences is to have a local guide with you to steer you through the process.
Address: Qutab Minar Complex, Mehrauli, nine miles (16km) from Connaught Place Delhi
Admission: Open daily, from dawn to dusk
The Qutub Minar is a mammoth tower that was built between 1193
and 1369 to symbolise Islamic rule over Delhi, and to commemorate
the victory by Qutab-ud-din over the city's last Hindu king.
Standing 238 feet (72m) tall, the tower is decorated with
calligraphy representing verses from the Quran, and tapers from 50
feet (15m) at the base to just eight feet (2.5m) at the top. There
are five distinct storeys, each encircled with a balcony: the first
three are built of red sandstone, and the upper two are faced with
At the foot of the minhar stands Quwwat-ul-Islam, India's oldest mosque, largely built from the remains of 27 Hindu and Jain temples destroyed by the Muslim victors. The cloisters that flank the nearby courtyard are supported by pillars that were unmistakably pilfered from Hindu temples, but fascinatingly, the faces that would have adorned these pillars have been removed to conform to Islamic law, which strictly forbids iconic worship.
Somewhat incongruously, in the corner of the mosque, stands the Iron Pillar, bearing 4th-century Sanskrit inscriptions of the Gupta period dedicating the structure to the memory of King Chandragupta II (373-413). It is said that anyone who can encircle the pillar with their hands whilst standing with their back to it will have their wishes fulfilled.
Address: Lodhi Road and Mathura Road Delhi
Admission: Daily, from dawn to dusk
Humayun's Tomb is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful
examples of Mogul architecture in Delhi, and is often seen as a
forerunner of the Taj Mahal in Agra. Building started on the tomb
in 1564 after the death of Humayun, the second Moghul emperor, and
its construction was overseen by Haji Begum, his senior widow and
the mother of Akbar. The tomb is an octagonal structure capped by a
double dome that soars 125ft (38m) into the sky, and is set in a
formal Persian garden. In the grounds are some other worthwhile
monuments, including the Tomb of Isa Khan. Some careful restoration
work has been done on some of the buildings and art but nothing
important has been altered and the site has not lost its sense of
authentic old age. Visiting this attraction is great for the
uninitiated because it is the perfect introduction to the
architecture, symbolism and importance of memorial tombs in India.
For photography lovers the tomb, with its red colouring and
geometric designs, is a wonderful subject. Tourist infrastructure
is somewhat lacking, with only a few stalls, a tiny exhibit and no
real public toilets - but, on the plus side, it is also less
crowded and commercial than many other sites in the city and
visitors can wander freely.
Address: Presidential Estate, North Avenue (formally Prakash Vir Shashtri Avenue), Rajpath Delhi
Admission: Free The gardens are open daily from 9am to 2:30pm, in February and March only
After his visit in 1911, the Emperor of India, King George V,
decreed that the capital should be moved from Calcutta to Delhi.
Edwin Lutyens was commissioned to plan the new government centre,
which he focused around Rajpath - the grand, tree-lined boulevard
that runs between the Secretariat Buildings and India Arch, the war
memorial built in 1921. Rashtrapati Bhavan was built by Lutyens and
Sir Herbert Baker between 1921 and 1929, on the gentle slope of
Raisina Hill, flanked by the Secretariat Buildings. This immense
palace, larger than Versailles, was created for the Viceroy and is
now the residence of the President of India. With the exception of
the central copper dome there are few concessions to Indian
architectural style: despite its Classical columns, the building is
unmistakably British and remains a potent symbol of imperial
Every Saturday morning between 9:35am and 10:15am guards parade before the iron gates, in Delhi's answer to London's Changing of the Guard. The gardens are open to the public every year in February and March but unfortunately no entry to the palace is permitted at any time of year; however, the exterior is very impressive and it is well worth at least a drive by.
Admission: Most shops are open from 10am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday
No trip to Delhi would be complete without a visit to one of the
bazaars that surround Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Square) in Old
Delhi, where shops and stalls display a wonderful array of goods,
and offer a pungent and colourful insight into everyday Delhi life.
Chandni Chowk has a large number of galis (lanes) and each one is
different, with its own atmosphere and selection of goods to
Naya Bazaar, on Khari Baoli, is the spice market, displaying a wonderful range of seasonings in neat, colourful piles. The nearby Gadodia Market is the wholesale spice market. Hundreds of spices and condiments can be found there, including aniseed, ginger, pomegranate, saffron, lotus seeds, pickles and chutneys, to name just a few.
Chor Bazaar sits behind the ramparts of the Red Fort and comes to life on Sundays to trade a collection of 'second-hand' goods. Chawri Bazaar was once notorious for the ladies who beckoned men from the arched windows and balconies above the street, but today these houses have made way for shops specialising in brass and copper Buddhas, Vishnus and Krishnas. Some of the busiest galis (east of Kalan Mahal) house the poultry and fish markets, but most tourists wisely avoid these areas.
Admission: Rs. 750 (foreign adult), Rs. 20 (local adult). Children under 15 free. Open daily, from sunrise to sunset. Closed on Fridays. Moonlight viewing: 8:30pm to 12:30am, two days before and after the full moon.
The Taj Mahal is one of the world's most recognisable and
evocative sights, and despite the incredible hype, a visit here
cannot disappoint. Set overlooking the River Yamuna, visible from
Agra Fort in the West, the Taj was built by Shah Jahan to enshrine
the body of his favourite wife, who died giving birth to her 14th
child, in 1631. The story of this great monument to love is given
an added poignancy by the fate of Shah Jahan himself. When his
devout and austere son Aurangzeb seized power, Shah Jahan was
interned in Agra Fort, where he lived out his final years gazing
wistfully at the Taj Mahal in the distance. When he died there, in
January 1666, with his daughter Jahanara Begum at his side, his
body was carried across the river to lie alongside his beloved wife
in the peerless mausoleum.
Completed in 1653, the Taj Mahal is set in a large walled garden, between two mini-Taj's (one of which is a mosque), and in front of a long reflecting pond. Close up, the craftsmanship of the building is as spectacular as from a distance - the inside of the vast double-dome is inlaid with delicately-filigreed verses from the Quran and semi-precious stones. Visitors should aim to visit it at dawn and at dusk, as the building truly does change colour through the day, from rosy pink, to gleaming ivory, to twilight-blue. Note that there can often be smog and fog in the mornings. Two days before and after the full moon, the Taj Mahal is open for moonlight viewing, but tickets must be booked at least 24 hours in advance, through the Archaeological Survey of India's offices in Agra.
Address: Agra, Uttar Pradesh Agra
Admission: Weekdays, sunrise to sunset
Not far from the gardens of the Taj Mahal stands the important
16th-century Mughal monument known as the Red Fort of Agra. This
powerful fortress of red sandstone encompasses, within its 1.5
mile-long (2.5km) enclosure walls, the imperial city of the Mughal
rulers. It comprises many fairytale palaces, such as the Jahangir
Palace and the Khas Mahal, built by Shah Jahan; audience halls such
as the Diwan-i-Khas; and the Sheesh Mahal (The Glass Palace), which
is inlaid with thousands of mirrors and was once the harem
dressing-room. There are also two beautiful mosques, including Shah
Jahan's Pearl Mosque. The Octagonal Tower is exquisitely carved,
and is the very place where Shah Jahan spent the last seven years
of his life. The tower used to be known for providing one of the
best views of the Taj Mahal - which is significant as Shah Jahan
famously built the Taj as a memorial to his wife and no doubt
enjoyed this view - but these days, regrettably, air pollution has
Not all of the areas and buildings in the Red Fort are open to visitors but there is plenty to see. There are lots of local guides available at the entrance and hiring one is recommended because the fort has accumulated many great stories in its long history. Try to arrive at the site early to avoid crowds and queues.
Situated on the crest of a hill seven miles (11km) north of
Jaipur is Amber, capital of the Kuchwaha Rajputs from 1037 to 1728.
The city-palace is protected by towering outer walls, and a further
wall runs for miles along the hills surrounding the palace. For
many, the most memorable part of a trip to Jaipur is the journey up
the palace ramparts, through a succession of vast gates, on the
back of a painted elephant, Maharaja-style. Inside are the ruins of
a once-great palace: a wonderful example of Rajput architecture,
with Mogul influences. Visitors will be able to see the remains of
the Maharajas quarters surrounded by the rooms of his many wives
and concubines, each linked to his bedroom by secret steps and
passageways to avoid jealousy. Although much of the complex is
closed to the public, there is still a large area to explore.
Visitors are advised to spend at least a few hours here, and
ideally to hire a guide who will explain the architecture and
history of the palace. Don't forget to pack your camera - photo
opportunities abound at Amber Palace - but note that there is a
small additional fee for those who want to take photographs.
Jaipur City Palace
Address: Chokri Shahad, Old City Jaipur
The magnificent City Palace is in the centre of the Pink City of
Jaipur, enclosed by high walls and set amid fine gardens and
courtyards. Since Jai Singh built it in 1728, it has been the
principal residence for the Maharajas of Jaipur and successive
rulers have each added to it. The palace was built during the glory
days and the exhibits and interior have lost none of their
splendour: the doors and gateways preserve their flamboyant
decoration; and royal retainers, clothed in turbans and full
livery, still guard the principal halls and entrances.
Chandra Mahal is the private palace of the current ruler and is approached through a number of courtyards. Mubarak Mahal, in the first courtyard, was once a guesthouse and is now a textile museum. There are a number of other museums displaying old costumes and uniforms, carpets, mementos, elephant saddles and an armoury containing a fascinating array of fearsome and inventive weapons dating back to the Mogul era.
A beautifully-carved marble gate with brass doors leads to the second courtyard, where Diwan-I-Khas, the hall of private audiences, is found. On display here are two gigantic silver urns used by Madho Singh II to carry water from the holy Ganges with him when he travelled to London in 1902 on board an ocean liner - he was reluctant to trust the water in the West! These are said to be the largest silver vessels in the world - 243kg of silver was required to cast each urn, and they can hold 8,182 gallons of water.
Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal)
Address: Sireh Deori Bazaar Jaipur
Admission: Open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm (closed on Fridays).
The Palace of the Winds is Jaipur's most acclaimed attraction.
Built in 1799, it is situated on the edge of the City Palace
complex overlooking one of the city's bustling main streets, and
was constructed to offer the women of the court a vantage point,
behind stone-carved screens, from which to watch the activity in
the bazaars below. The five-storey building is shaped like a crown
adorning Lord Krishna's head, and contains over five hundred
finely-screened windows and balconies. Although the palace's
primary appeal is its ornate and finely-carved pink façade,
visitors can also go inside and see the intricate, honeycombed
stonework of the original screens close up. You get some beautiful
views of the city and some surrounding forts from the inside of the
building. Additional motivation for exploring the interior - apart
from the thrill of imagining the royal wives and consorts flitting
about behind their screens - is the naturally cool, breezy nature
of the place, which makes it refreshing on hot days. If, however,
you just want to see the building and take some photos it is quite
possible to do this from the road without paying the entrance fee.
The building is particularly lovely early in the morning when the
light makes it seem even pinker than usual.
Udaipur Lake Palace
The white walls of Udaipur's Lake Palace soar above the peaceful
waters of Lake Pichola, topped by ornamental battlements and
turrets. The sprawling palace has been developed by successive
maharanas since the foundation of Udaipur in 1559. These days, part
of the palace is home to the current maharana, a section of it is a
first-class hotel (with the best restaurant in the city), and the
remainder is a museum.
The approach to the City Palace is through the Elephant Gate, Hati Pol. The Great Gate (Bara Pol) leads to the first court, where eight carved arches mark the spot where the rulers were once weighed against gold or silver, the equivalent value of which was then distributed among the poor. Beyond the Tripolia Gate is the arena where the elephant tug-of-war competitions were staged, past which are a series of courtyards, overlapping pavilions, terraces, corridors and hanging gardens.
The Krishna Vilas honours a 19th-century Udaipur princess, who poisoned herself to avoid the dilemma of choosing a husband from the two rival households of Jodhpur and Jaipur. Its walls display miniature paintings portraying royal processions, festivals and hunting parties. Further along, a glass mosaic gallery contains superb portraits and stained glass, and offers a wonderful panoramic view of the city below. Set into the walls of the 17th-century Mor Chowk are brilliant mosaics of three peacocks showing the three seasons: summer, winter and monsoon. Perhaps the most splendid rooms in the palace are the women's quarters, Zenana Mahal, with their ornate alcoves, balconies and coloured windows.
Udaipur's Lake Palace really does have a storybook quality to it - both in terms of its looks and its history - and it is rightly considered by all and sundry to be one of India's stellar tourist attractions.
Jain Temples of Ranakpur
Address: Ranakpur, Pali district Udaipur
Forty miles (60km) north of Udaipur are the Jain Temples of
Ranakpur. It is the largest temple complex of its kind in India,
and boasts some truly staggering marble work - easily on a par with
any in Asia. The main temple was built in 1439, and is dedicated to
the first tirthankara Adinath, whose image is enshrined in its
central sanctuary. The temple is two or three storeys high in
parts, and its roof, topped with five large shikharas, undulates
with tiny spires that crown the small shrines to Jain saints lining
the temple walls. Within are 1444 pillars, each sculpted with
unique and intricate designs, and dissecting the 29 halls. The
carving on the walls, columns and the domed ceilings is superb.
Friezes depicting the life of the tirthankara are etched into the
walls, while musicians and dancers have been modelled out of
brackets between the pillars and the ceiling. While exploring the
temples at Ranakpur, visitors may see Jain monks walking about with
masks on their faces to avoid eating insects: the most important
teaching of Jainism is 'Ahimsa', meaning non-violence, and this is
applied to all sentient beings. Many monks also carry a brush to
sweep surfaces to avoid standing on bugs. Ranakpur's isolated
position means it is not on the major tourist trail, but it makes a
good stop for those travelling between Jaipur and Udaipur.
Address: South Mumbai Mumbai
The magnificent Gothic Victorian buildings in Mumbai's Fort Area
highlight the power and wealth of the British Empire at its might,
and are reminiscent of many of the great public buildings in London
or Glasgow. The Victoria Terminus (known as CST) was opened in
1888, and is one of the world's grandest railway stations, on a par
with New York's Grand Central Station or London's St Pancras. Built
in the Italian Gothic style, it looks more like a
lavishly-decorated cathedral than a railway station: massive arches
soar splendidly above the scurrying crowd, and carved into the
pillars and buttresses are images of monkeys, peacocks, elephants
and lions. The station is topped by a tall dome crowned with a
statue representing Progress.
The nearby St Thomas' Cathedral was built between 1672 and 1718, standing witness to almost the entire history of the British in Bombay. Its whitewashed interior contains poignant colonial memorials - including one to Henry Robertson Bower, Lieutenant of the Royal Indian Marine, who lost his life returning from the South Pole with Captain Scott.
The epicentre of the Fort Area is Horniman Circle, which is surrounded by curved, arcaded terraces. The lush and leafy garden in the centre offers a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding city.
The southernmost peninsula of Mumbai, known as Colaba, is where
most travellers gravitate as it has a good range of hotels and
restaurants and two of the city's most famous landmarks: the
Gateway to India and the Taj Mahal Hotel. The Gateway to India was
built in 1911 to commemorate the visit to India of King George V
and Queen Mary. The archway is built from honey-coloured basalt in
a style derived from Gujarati architecture of the 16th century. In
the days of the steam liner, the Gateway was for many visitors
their first and last sight of India, but today it acts purely as a
colourful tourist stop, and attracts hawkers, snake charmers, and
beggars. The neighbouring Taj Mahal Hotel was built in 1902 by JN
Tata, after he was allegedly refused entry to one of the city's
European hotels on account of being 'a native'. It has since turned
into a bit of an institution, and the streets behind it have become
a Mecca for foreign shoppers; the Colaba Causeway is the main
street, with a melee of street vendors, shops, stalls and
Unfortunately Colaba was also the site of two of the 2008 Mumbai Attacks and tourists are recommended to remain vigilant when visiting the area. To the north of the causeway, set in beautiful lush gardens, is the fascinating Prince of Wales Museum displaying a collection of ancient and medieval sculpture and Indian decorative arts. Nearby, the new National Gallery of Modern Art showcases Indian modern art. To the south is the Sassoon Dock, which at dawn becomes an area of intense and pungent activity as fishing boats arrive to unload their catch.
Built in the 1920s, Marine Drive runs along the shoreline of the
Arabian Sea, from Nariman Point to the foot of Malabar Hill. It is
Mumbai's most famous thoroughfare, and a favourite spot for
watching the sunset. Lined on the landward side by a crescent of
crumbling Art Deco buildings, it is lit up memorably at night,
prompting travel agents to dub it 'the Queen's Necklace'. At the
top end of Marine Drive is Chowpatty Beach, the only beach in the
central part of Mumbai. Though not ideal for sunbathing or
swimming, it is a popular (though hectic) place to spend an
afternoon, surrounded by beach traders, entertainers and beggars.
It is the best place to watch the annual Ganesh Chaturthi Festival
(during August/September), when vast models of Lord Ganesha are
immersed in the sea. Marine Drive is also an exciting vantage point
on Diwali, when there are stunning fireworks in the bay and all
over the city. The thoroughfare is best avoided on weekends, when
it can get extremely crowded and rather dirty, but the atmosphere
is festive and some people love to mingle on busy days. There are
many restaurants and cafes lining the street and it is lovely to
either walk or drive along the road at night.
Address: Junction of Dadabhoy Naoroji Road and Carnac Road Mumbai
The colourful indoor Crawford Market (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule
Market) is where locals of central Mumbai go shopping for their
fruit, vegetables and (for the brave) meat. Rudyard Kipling was
born just south of the market, in 1865, and an ornate fountain
designed by his father, Lockwood Kipling, sits between old fruit
boxes at the market's centre. He also designed the frieze depicting
Indian peasants in wheat fields which hangs above the main
entrance. You can find almost anything at the market which is large
and full of surprises. The animal market at the rear sells
everything from poodles to parrots in small cages.
If you visit Crawford Market be sure to also have a wander around the area, particularly in the narrow lanes of Kalbadevi, north of the market. This predominantly Muslim area is a seething mass of people and traffic and is the location of several markets selling jewellery, textiles and leather goods. The most famous is the Chor Bazaar, Mumbai's 'thieves' market', which sells 'antiques' and miscellaneous junk - don't place too much faith in the authenticity of anything sold here. This area is also home to the Jama Masjid and the Mumbadevi Temple, which is dedicated to the patron goddess of the island's original Koli inhabitants.
Anjuna Flea Market
Address: Anjuna, beach town in north Goa Goa
Admission: Every Wednesday, from 9am till dusk
Once just a backpacker and hippie hangout selling kaftans and
chillums, the Anjuna Flea Market is now more commercial, with a
broad range of high-quality goods on sale. Traders from all over
India come to sell their wares: Lamani women from Karnataka,
dressed in their traditional garb, sell colourful, elaborately
woven clothes; Kashmiri stalls display silver and papier-mâché
boxes; and Tibetans preside over orderly rows of sundry Himalayan
curios. Visitors are expected to bargain - often the starting price
will be more than double what something is worth and rule of thumb
is to try and haggle down to 50 percent of the original asking
price - but the stall owners tend to be friendly and less pushy
than in some other markets. Even if not planning to haggle for
anything, the market is a great place to watch the world go by and
mingle with bands of musicians, snake charmers, beggars and the
inevitable juggling hippies. The place is colourful and vibrant,
and conveniently located right on the beautiful coastline. It is a
good idea to go early to avoid the crowds and midday heat. The
market takes place every Wednesday.
For most visitors to India, Panaji is simply a busy bus
terminal, offering connections between India's southern cities and
the beautiful beaches of Goa. However, this most sedate of state
capitals has plenty to offer tourists, and should rightly have a
day or two devoted to it on any Indian travel itinerary. Situated
on the southern banks of the Mandovi River, Panaji only became the
capital of Goa in 1843, after the harbour at Old Goa silted up and
disease had driven its inhabitants out. The best way to explore the
town is on foot, wandering around the old cobbled alleyways,
colonial villas, red-roofed houses, taverns and cafes, all of which
has the look and feel of a small Portuguese town. There are some
wonderful old government buildings, dating back to before
colonisation, and some elegant Catholic churches. Most memorable is
the Church of the Immaculate Conception: built in 1541, it's topped
with a huge bell that sits between two delicate Baroque-style
towers, and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Panaji
is a delightful place to explore and has an extremely laid-back
atmosphere and small town feel unusual for a state capital.
Situated on a hilltop at the southern end of India is Kerala's
capital, Thiruvananthapuram (still commonly known as Trivandrum).
For most visitors the capital is simply a transit-point on their
way to Kovalam, the popular beach resort a few miles to the south.
However, it is worth lingering for a day or so in this easy-going
city to explore the narrow backstreets, old gabled houses and
The most fascinating part of Trivandrum is the Fort area, around the Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple (closed to non-Hindus); and Puttan Malika Palace, seat of the Travancore Rajas. Some of the palace has been turned into a museum, and displays a collection of heirlooms and artefacts; however, the highlight is the building's typically understated, elegant Keralan architecture. Beneath sloping red-tiled roofs, hundreds of wooden pillars carved into the forms of horses prop up the eaves, with airy verandas projecting onto the surrounding lawns.
When it gets too hot at sea level, Ponmudi makes a welcome excursion. This enchanting hill station, tucked away in the Western Ghats 40 miles (64km) to the north of the capital, offers a lot to travellers with a passion for trekking, and just as much to those who'd prefer a gentle wander along narrow, winding pathways, through cool, wooded environs thick with mountain flowers and butterflies. The hill resort is surrounded by tea-estates and mist-covered valleys, and peppered with little stone cottages painted violet, pink and white.
Old Goa was the state's capital city until 1843, when it was
moved down river to Panaji. Once a byword for splendour, with a
population of several hundred thousand, Old Goa was virtually
abandoned from the 17th century, as the river silted up and a
series of malaria and cholera epidemics drove out the
It takes some imagination to picture the once-great capital as it used to be. The maze of twisting streets, piazzas and grand Portuguese villas have long gone: all that remains are a score of extraordinarily grandiose churches and convents. Old Goa has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and today is the state's main cultural attraction. Tourists take a break from the beach resorts to come and admire the massive facades and beautiful interiors of the city's well-preserved churches.
The Tuscan St Catherine's Cathedral is the largest church in India and took eighty years to build, finally being consecrated in 1640. The scale and detail of the Corinthian-style interior is overwhelming: huge pillars divide the central nave from the side aisles, and no less than fifteen altars are arranged around the walls. An altar to St Anne treasures the relics of the Blessed Martyrs of Cuncolim, whose failed mission to convert the Moghul emperor Akbar culminated in their murder; while a chapel behind a highly detailed screen holds the Miraculous Cross, which stood in a Goan village until a vision of Christ appeared on it. Reported to heal the sick, it is now kept in a box; a small opening on the side allows devotees to touch it.
Other sights worth seeing include the Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 to commemorate Vasco da Gama's arrival in India, and the distinctive, domed Church of St Cajetan (1651), modelled on St Peter's in Rome. Old Goa is a major site for Christian pilgrims from all over India who come to visit the tomb of St Francis Xavier, the renowned 16th-century missionary whose remains are enshrined in the Basilica of Bom Jesus.
Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
Address: Kumily, Kerala Kerala
Situated in the Cardamom Hills region of the Western Ghats, the
Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the most popular wildlife
reserves in India. It is home to a great variety of game, including
elephant, sambar, wild pig, mongoose, the Malabar flying squirrel
and almost 300 species of bird. Leopards and dwindling numbers of
tigers are also here, but are, unfortunately, rarely glimpsed by
The park lies 75 miles southeast of Cochin at cool altitudes, between about 3,000 and 6,000 feet (900 and 1800 metres). Ironically, the park was created by the royal family of Travancor to preserve their favourite hunting grounds from the encroachment of tea plantations, and is centred around a vast artificial lake that was created by the British in 1895 to supply water to the drier parts of the state.
Most people view Periyar from a boat on the lake; however, many visitors prefer to explore the area on foot. Local guides take small groups on treks of various lengths. Exploring on foot should be avoided in the weeks immediately following monsoon season, when leeches make hiking virtually unbearable. The best time to visit is from December to April, when the dry weather draws animals from the forest to drink at the lakeside. Periyar is also a good base for day trips to visit the local tea and spice plantations, and to explore the waterfalls and appreciate the fine views of the Cardamom Hills.
The Backwaters of Kerala
One of the most memorable experiences for many travellers in
Kerala is a boat journey on the state's famous backwaters. The
best-known of these areas is Kuttanad, situated between the hills
in the west and the Arabian Sea, and stretching for 50 miles south
of Kochi (formerly Cochin). This extraordinary maze of rivers,
lakes, canals and estuaries is lined with dense tropical greenery
and reveals a Keralan lifestyle that is totally hidden from the
road. Boats are the only way to explore this area, billed as
Kaleidoscope Kerala, where views change around every bend: narrow
tree-covered canals open onto dazzling vistas of paddy fields, and
through the trees can be glimpsed churches, mosques, temples, and
small farms and villages which remain relatively untouched by the
modern world. Buffaloes are used for ploughing the fields and women
bathe and wash their clothes in the rivers. Roads do cross this
area, but are almost entirely linked by manually-operated ferries
rather than bridges. Kingfishers, cormorants and fish eagles
compete with fisherman in rowing boats for the dwindling fish
population. Providing visitors with the chance to just sit back and
allow life to unfold around them at its own, slow pace, a trip on
the Keralan backwaters is the ideal tonic for travel fatigue -
especially if your experience of cities like Mumbai, Delhi and
Kolkata has got you feeling a bit strung out.
Address: Fatehpur Sikri is a 25-mile (40km) journey west of Agra, on the way to Jaipur. Agra
The deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the
Mughal Empire between 1570 and 1585. It was built under the
personal supervision of the Emperor Akbar. The story goes that the
emperor was childless and, having tried all sorts of solutions to
his plight, visited a Sufi saint, Sheikh Salim Chishti, for help.
Soon a son was born, and - impressed and overjoyed - Akbar started
building on the site where he had met the saint. However, due to a
severe shortage of water the city was abandoned after only fifteen
years, and the capital was relocated back to Agra. As a result,
Fatehpur Sikri stands untouched and perfectly preserved: a complete
medieval fortress built of red sandstone, with vast central
squares, exquisitely carved multi-tiered pavilions, cool terraces
and formal gardens. It is best to hire a guide, or do some research
before your visit, because the site is hugely enriched by some
knowledge of its fascinating history and the many stories that have
accumulated about the place. You can walk freely around the vast
complex admiring the intricate architecture and carvings and
imagining how the royal family once lived. The gardens are also
lovely and well-maintained.
Haji Ali Dargah
Address: Off the coast of Worli, near Mahalaxmi railway station Mumbai
The Haji Ali Dargah is both a mosque and a tomb, located in
southwestern Mumbai, on an islet off the coast of Worli. The
(tomb) was built in memory of Muslim preacher Syed
Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari in 1431, who was inspired to change the
course of his life after embarking on the Hajj to Mecca. Haji Ali
is only accessible by a 1500-foot (457m) walkway during low tide.
The walkway is generally lined with beggars and vendors, and
Thursdays and Fridays see thousands of pilgrims flocking to Haji
Ali to receive blessings from the dead saint. People of all
religions are welcomed but the mosque is an important spiritual
site for Muslims and some respect is due from visitors, who must
abide by the mosque's rules - for instance, dress appropriately and
use the separate entrances designated for women and men. As with
many big attractions in Mumbai the site can get uncomfortably
crowded and can be rather dirty, with beggars, touts and salesmen
of all kinds thronging the place. The best time to visit is at low
tide, early in the morning, as it is less crowded and the high tide
washes away some of the rubbish. Although some people lament the
crowds and dirt the Haji Ali Dargah is still a powerful and
captivating site which impresses many.
Address: Dr Annie Besant Rd., Worli. Closest Railway Stations: Mumbai Central, Mahalakshmi, Dadar and Byculla. Mumbai
The exciting Nehru Centre, which even looks like a UFO, features
a world-class planetarium, an art gallery filled with emerging
talent, and an interesting culture wing. However, the highlight of
the centre is the (permanent) Discovery of India exhibition, with
consists of 14 galleries showcasing every aspect of artistic,
intellectual and philosophical attainment in India through the
ages; you walk through the history of India from ancient times to
independence. This is a wonderful place to start for those looking
to get to grips with the history and identity of India, one of the
most mercurial and fascinating countries in the world. The centre
is a tribute to its namesake, the first Prime Minister of an
independent India, and described on the official website as a
'living testament and monument of faith in Jawaharlal Nehru's
vision of man, his compassion for humanity, his concern for
humanbeings and his undying passion to lift them to the greatest
and highest purpose'. The planetarium is also very popular and
offers well-planned and presented shows. There is a restaurant in
the centre which has received good reviews from visitors.
Prince of Wales Museum
Address: 159/161 Mahatma Gandhi Rd Mumbai
Admission: Rs 300 (foreign adults), Rs 25 (foreign students and scholars), Rs 10 (foreign children aged 5 to 12). Admission includes audioguide. Open daily from 10:15am to 6pm. Closed for some national holidays.
The Prince of Wales Museum, now officially known as the
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, was founded in the
early 20th century to commemorate the visit of (eventual King of
the United Kingdom) George V. The museum houses more than 50,000
exhibits of ancient Indian history, as well as artefacts from other
lands. The museum's greatest areas of focus are art, archaeology
and natural history. The Indus Valley Civilisation section is
particularly impressive. The museum is surrounded by a lovely
garden, which provides a nice area to stroll in after exploring the
exhibitions. The building dates back to 1914 but it was originally
used as a military hospital and only housed the museum in 1922; it
is an acknowledged architectural gem of the city.
There is a cafe where visitors can buy refreshments and it's fun to enjoy them out in the garden. The museum's collection is fairly large and if you want to see everything you will need a few hours. Students should be sure to take their student cards along because the concession for foreign students is substantial. There is no air conditioning in the building so rather don't visit in the midday heat. You are allowed to take photographs for personal use, but there is an additional charge to take in a camera.
Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum
Address: 19 Laburnam Rd Mumbai
The former home of Mahatma Gandhi, the Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum
is a Gujarati-style house featuring three floors for visitors to
explore. The house did not belong to Gandhi but served as his home
and headquarters in Bombay for 17 eventful years between 1917 and
1934; it belonged to a friend of his, who was his host whenever he
visited the city. Several important events and activities in
Gandhi's political life took place or were initiated at this place
- he was arrested on the terrace in 1932. The museum houses an
incredible library, full of Gandhi-related books, periodicals,
photographs, posters and even the great man's old
(spinning wheel). His old room has been preserved as
it was when he lived in it, as far as possible, and there is a
Picture Gallery and an Auditorium that plays Gandhi's speeches and
films about him. The terrace where he once prayed, spoke and was
arrested is open to the public. There is also a Sales Counter which
sells memorabilia like stamps, photographs and books. For anybody
interested in the life of this global icon the museum is a must,
but it will probably bore young children or those who have no
interest in history.
Address: Prakash Pathe Marg Mumbai
Known as the 'world's largest laundromat', the Dhobi Ghat
provides a scene many travellers might have already seen in movies.
Every day, thousands of
(laundry washers) collect dirty laundry and descend
upon the concrete washing areas, all fitted with their own flogging
stones, to wash the garments. To the dhobis themselves, the washing
and drying of clothes is a menial task - but to inquisitive
tourists, this practise can be a fascinating insight into India's
daily life, as well as a surviving relic of old India. The job is
traditionally hereditary, and many of the men at work have families
that have been doing the same job, and using the same age-old
techniques, for generations. This is not a glamorous attraction but
it is a very interesting one and many tourists love to photograph
the work and the area and get a taste of the 'real' India. Having a
local guide is an advantage because they can explain the history of
the area and the job, and because they usually prevent the petty
theft and pick-pocketing which sometimes occurs. Generally the
people are very friendly and amused by the foreign interest in
their menial labour but do watch your belongings carefully.
Entrance to the area should be free but there have been reports of
locals asking for a small admission price.
Address: Elephanta Island Mumbai
Admission: Boats depart from the Gateway of India every 30 minutes from Tuesday to Sunday, from about 9am to 2:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Located on Elephanta Island, in the Arabian Sea off the coast of
Mumbai, the Elephanta Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an
absolute must for visitors to Mumbai. The island can be reached by
an hour long boat ride from the Gateway of India pier. The caves
(the oldest of the four sects of Hindusm) stone
sculptures of Hindu deities important to worshippers of Shiva. Many
of the sculptures in the caves were unfortunately defaced by the
Portuguese who, in the 17th century, used the sculptures for target
practice. However, there is still lots of intricate and impressive
art to see. When you arrive and step off the ferry you walk through
a gauntlet of vendors selling all sorts of food and trinkets. You
can take a ride on a small train to get to the cave site, or you
can opt to be carried up in chairs, although it is also possible to
just walk. Each year, in February, the Elephanta Dance Festival is
held outside the caves with lots of local dance troupes performing.
The island can get very crowded on weekends and public holidays so
it is best to go during the week if possible.
Great Banyan Tree
Address: Andul Rd and Kurz Ave, five miles (8km) from the CBD Kolkata
The Indian Botanical Garden in Kolkata has many floral
treasures, but none as impressive as the 250-year-old Great Banyan
Tree, which covers nearly 5,300 square feet (500sq/m). What at
first seems like a forest of narrow trunks is, in fact, 1,573
drop-roots from a single banyan tree - either the largest or second
largest canopy tree in the world depending on who you believe.
The gardens, located on the west bank of the Hooghly River, contain about 12,000 living plant species from every corner of the globe and offer some good bird watching opportunities and a quiet green space in which to walk, relax and picnic. There are many paths and trails to explore. Since July 2012 the gardens have been closed on Mondays for maintenance but walkers and joggers are still let in. Officially the gardens open at 8am, but those wanting to exercise can usually get in as early as 5:30am. The gardens are not as impressive in winter and maintenance seems to take a backseat in the off-peak months but the Great Banyan Tree is worth a visit at any time of year and in spring and summer the birds, butterflies and flowers are a joy. Be warned: the toilet facilities are rather primitive.
Address: Queens Way, Central Kolkata Kolkata
This astounding marble building is probably the most impressive
colonial structure in India; in a city known for several great
monuments and buildings, this palace is often considered the
primary architectural gem and most iconic landmark. It was built to
commemorate Queen Victoria (although she never actually visited the
city) and only completed in 1921, after 20 years of solid work.
Inside is a fascinating museum of Indian history, including some
wonderful sculptures and paintings. The monument is situated on 64
acres of land, which includes lakes, gardens and walking paths. The
gardens are well-maintained and for many the lovely grounds and
exterior facade of the memorial are the highlight - the museum is
fascinating if you are genuinely interested in India's colonial
history but the exhibitions are informative rather than
entertaining. Although the museum officially opens much later, you
can usually get into the gardens for a small fee as early as
5:30am. This is a really beautiful time of day to visit and
wonderful for photographs or morning exercise. Note that although
you can take wonderful photos all over the grounds, no photography
is permitted inside the memorial. There is a sound and light show
most evenings at 7:15pm.
With 60 galleries of art, archaeology and anthropology, this is
India's largest museum, India's oldest museum, and quite possibly
India's most attractive museum, housed as it is in a stunning,
colonnaded palace. The Indian Museum was established in 1814 and
the collection is vast and varied, including fossils, skeletons,
coins, manuscripts, all kinds of Indian art and sculpture,
traditional games, icons, puppets, toys, musical instruments and
much more. The natural history collection is thought to be one of
the world's finest and the museum library is famous for its
impressive collection. Unfortunately, although there are
fascinating things to see and learn in the museum, it is not as
well-maintained as it could be, and sometimes the beautiful
building seems slightly dilapidated. Nevertheless, a visit here is
mandatory for those wanting a snap-shot view of India's past. As
the collection is so big it is best to join one of the four guided
tours that are available each day. There are restrooms and a simple
little gift shop at the museum; there are also usually many hawkers
outside the museum selling snacks, souvenirs and trinkets.
Address: 54a AJC Bose Rd, Chowringhee Kolkata
Admission: Open daily from 8am to 12pm; and 3pm to 6pm. Closed on Thursdays
This humble and touching temple to Mother Teresa's life and work
in downtown Kolkata is well worth a visit. Upstairs is a small
museum, full of affecting and interesting displays; and you even
have a chance to see Blessed Teresa's bedroom, preserved exactly as
it was when she lived in the building. You can also visit Mother
Teresa's tomb and spend a quiet moment praying or reflecting in
this inspirational place. Not so much an 'attraction' as a deeply
emotional and inspiring insight into a life of self-sacrifice and
devotion, a visit to Mother House makes a fine counterpoint to more
traditional tourist pursuits. In fact, for many visitors to the
city it tops their list of worthwhile things to see and do,
particularly as Kolkata is so strongly associated with Mother
Teresa in the global imagination. Mother House is a memorial and
museum but it is also an active charity organisation with real nuns
at work. You can offer a donation of money or clothes if you wish
to, and there is an orphanage nearby which is a beneficiary of the
organisation and which some people like to visit to lend a hand.
Mother House is a real gem in this sprawling city and a special
place to visit.
Address: Just off Ashutosh Mukherjee Rd, South Kolkata Kolkata
This 350-year-old temple dedicated to Kali is Kolkata's holiest
site, attracting a throng of excited pilgrims every day. You'll
need to tip one of the priests in order to get inside through the
mêlée of devotees. Inside the temple there are several shrines: a
Krishna shrine where goats and buffalo are sacrificed to the
goddess (the meat is distributed to the poor); a shrine to the
goddess Manasa which consists of a tree, to which devotees
(typically women) tie rocks with red thread in order to receive
blessings, usually regarding fertility; a Shiva shrine with a Vedic
fire pit in which a fire ceremony is performed daily; and, of
course, a shrine to Kali which is a statue of the god with a
three-eyed black skull and a long, golden tongue. Stalls selling
votive items and various artefacts surround the temple. If you want
to avoid the worst crowds, then the best days to visit Kalighat
Temple are Wednesdays and Thursdays. You are advised to take ample
change (in Rs 10 denominations) to tip the various priests and
ushers. Visiting the Kalighat Temple can be quite overwhelming as
it is a chaotic place but it is a fascinating experience and a good
way to immerse yourself in the local religion and culture.
Address: 46 Muktaram Basu Street (off Chittaranjan Avenue) Kolkata
One of Kolkata's most unusual sites, this palace was built by a
local member of the 19th century gentry in a marvellous patchwork
of classical architectural styles. Lavish use is made of Italian
marble, and the lawns contain an eclectic pantheon of statues
including Christopher Columbus and the Buddha. The Marble Palace is
a place of drama and dilapidation - and unsurprisingly, has
frequently been used as a movie set. It remains a private
residence, however, so you'll have to arrange a permit to view the
interior (a worthwhile activity, if only to gawk at the impressive
art lining the walls). Permits can be obtained from the West Bengal
Tourism Information Bureau. Once you have obtained the permit,
entrance to the palace is free and a member of the staff should
show you around and tell you about the place. If you are impressed
with your guide than a tip may be in order. Frequently, those who
arrive without the permit are persuaded by the guards to pay bribes
to get in but this is not advisable as once you have bribed one,
you may be expected to pay another a few steps later! Next to the
palace, you'll find the Marble Palace Zoo, the first zoo opened in
India, which is now primarily an aviary, housing peacocks,
hornbills, pelicans, storks and cranes. No photography is permitted
in the palace.
Goa has some amazing beaches, and draws a steady stream of local
and international tourists.
In the north, Anjuna Beach once played host to hordes of hippies, but is now home to a number of trendy beach bars as well as the famous Wednesday Market. The new hippie haven is Arambol beach, also good for dolphin-viewing and paragliding. With its white-sand beaches, Vagator is gaining in popularity; however, the sea is not safe for swimming there because of rip tides. The busiest, most commercial beach is Calangutell; while neighbouring Baga Beach has great nightlife spots.
In the south, Agonda is a quiet stretch of beach with a few souvenir stalls and restaurants, while Benaulim Beach, south of Colva, is known for its fishing and laid-back atmosphere. In recent years, Benaulim has become popular with tourists wanting to get away from Goa's party reputation and just lay back, jog along the long stretch of beach and indulge in the city's fresh and healthy culinary fare. The shady palm trees and soft sands of Palolem Beach, also known as Paradise Beach, are backpacker territory; however, it's also a great place for a dolphin cruise or picturesque sundowner at one of the many beach bars lining the water. Nearby Patnem has some lovely beach huts available to rent.
There are a couple of great beaches to take the kids to in Goa. The fishing village of Benaulim, near Colva, has a few quiet spots with soft sand and beautiful clean water. A firm family favourite is the Mandrem beach area, which offers shallow waters for kids to play in, and beach beds for parents to relax on. Between the beach at Mandrem and the dunes, there's a little wooden bridge crossing a river that kids love to play on.
A great outing in Goa is a trip to the Dudhsagar Waterfall,
which is one of the most popular natural attractions in the area.
The falls are located in a tropical jungle near the Goa-Karnataka
border, and are surrounded by a network of gently flowing streams
and pools. Swimming, hiking and picnicking are popular pastimes at
the falls and the deep pool beneath the falls is a favourite nature
spot. The waterfalls are among the 100 highest in the world, and
visitors who take the difficult climb to the top will be rewarded
with breathtaking views of the Western Ghats' wooded mountains.
There are usually monkeys to be found in the jungle and around the
falls and they tend to be very tame because tourists often feed
them; feeding the monkeys is prohibited because they quickly become
a nuisance when they associate people with easy food. They are fun
to watch and interact with but be cautious with your food and
possessions as they may try to take something. The most common way
to get to the falls is to take a fun 30-minute Jeep ride from the
entrance to the jungle, but some intrepid travellers choose to walk
along the train rails from Castle Rock Station. The hike is
beautiful but it is over eight miles (14km) and should only be
attempted by the fit.
Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
Address: Chorao Island, on the Mandovi River Goa
Admission: The sanctuary opens at 6.30am every day and closes at dusk.
The Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is home to around 400 species of
birds, both local and migratory. Here visitors can expect to see
kingfishers, pintails, coots and egrets, as well as a few
crocodiles, jackals and foxes inhabiting the mangroves. Although
this is one of the smallest bird sanctuaries in Goa, it is among
the most famous in India. The time that you visit is important: the
best time to see the migratory birds is after the monsoon season,
from October to March; and bird and animal sightings are likely to
be better early in the morning. The sanctuary is not a zoo and the
animals are in no way enclosed so experiences vary hugely with
regard to how much people see. The mangroves themselves are
interesting and beautiful and for many nature lovers a boat ride
through this unusual landscape is reason enough to visit the
sanctuary. If you prefer to explore on foot, guided walks through
the mangroves are also available. Bear in mind that you are
exploring a swamp and that there will be mosquitoes - insect
repellent and long-sleeved clothing are in order. Photography is
welcomed but there is a small extra fee for cameras.
Cubbon Park is Bengaluru's equivalent of Central Park: a place
of relaxation, open space and some worthwhile attractions. In and
around the park are the State Central Library, two municipal
museums, an art gallery and the Government Aquarium. The intensely
red Attara Kacheri, which houses the regional high court, is
unmistakable and eminently photographable. The State Archaeological
Museum is one of the oldest in India, has artefacts dating back
5,000 years, and is well worth a visit to gain some historical
context to this relentlessly modern city. The handsome and
photogenic Seshadri Memorial Library is another distinctly red
building on the fringes of the park. At the northern edge of Cubbon
Park is the imposing Vidhana Soudha, home to the State Legislature
and Secretariat. The massive sandalwood doors to the Cabinet are a
notable feature of this handsome colonial structure, built in a
neo-Dravidian style; the construction work was done by more than
5,000 prisoners, who were set free once the building was finished,
First and foremost, however, the park is a green lung, a peaceful and pretty place to take a break from the traffic and noise of this bustling city. It is a great area for walkers and joggers - particularly early in the morning and in the evenings. If you are travelling with kids in Bengaluru then Cubbon Park has many lovely picnic spots and open space to let off some steam; there is also boating on the lake and a toy train that runs around the park. Note that there is a busy road running through the area so it is not completely devoid of traffic.
Address: Mari Gowda Rd, Shanti Nagar, 2.5 miles (4km) south of the city centre, Bengaluru
This splendid botanical garden, laid out by Hyder Ali and his
son Tipu Sultan as a private royal garden in 1760, contains more
than 1,000 species of rare flora in its enormous grounds. Lal Bagh
is an internationally renowned centre for the scientific study and
conservation of plants, and also a centre of botanical artwork. The
name Lal Bagh means 'red garden', in tribute to its celebrated red
roses. The centrepiece of Lal Bagh is the Glass House, which hosts
an annual flower show and is modelled after London's Crystal
Palace. Apart from the many old and imposing trees which delight
visitors, the gardens also house a deer park, an aquarium, a lake
and one of the city's four Kempe Gowda Towers.
The gardens are large and very beautiful with a great variety of scenery, many well-maintained paths to explore, and lots of shady nooks and lawns for picnics and relaxation. There are four entrance gates to the botanical garden and it is very popular with locals and visitors alike. None of the features are really stand-alone attractions but the gardens are a refreshing green lung in a crowded city, and a lovely place to take a morning stroll or jog and enjoy the peace.
Famed as a hippie hangout since the 70s, the main source of
Anjuna's enduring popularity as a holiday destination is its superb
beach. Fringed by palm trees, the curve of soft white sand conforms
more closely to the archetypal vision of paradise than any other
beach on the north coast. The quieter southern end is protected by
rocky outcrops, while to the north the beach widens and stretches
for almost a mile past groups of bars, cafés and handicraft stalls.
Revellers from the UK and all over India come to Anjuna on holiday,
lured by the club scene and the promise of big beach parties
(particularly over Christmas and New Year). Outside this peak
season the resort normalises to a simple, relaxed atmosphere;
except on Wednesdays, when locals and tourists flock from all
around to shop at the famous Flea Market and drink sundowners at
one of the many restaurants and bars that stretch along the beach.
The best place to spend a night out in Anjuna is the same place you
would probably have spent your day...the beach. Stopping in at any
of the beach-front bars and restaurants for a cold beer can lead to
a night of fun, with the bar owners dispensing great advice about
the latest impromptu party.
Galta Monkey Temple (Galtaji)
Address: Outside Gulta Pol, close to Agra Road. Follow the steps from the Sun Temple down the hill to find Galtaji Jaipur
Admission: Open daily, from sunrise to sunset
Situated between two granite cliffs, this temple is part of a
much larger temple complex. The complex has three sacred pools
which locals, and the monkeys, enjoy swimming in. This Hindi temple
is slightly dilapidated but definitely still worth the trip out of
the city - the views of Jaipur afforded from its vantage are simply
unforgettable. The best time to see the temple is at sunset, when
the monkeys appear for their evening swim and when the light is
stunning for photographs. The complex is covered in monkeys and
some other animals and it is not a polished, elegant place, but it
is interesting and in its own way very beautiful. There may be mud
and beggars and livestock in the mix with the crumbling beauty and
sacred pools but for many this only adds authenticity and interest.
The monkeys are tame and usually keen to interact with people - if
you don't like the animals then this is not a good attraction for
you. They are not dangerous and tend to be quite gentle; many
visitors bring along food for them. The temple is active and a good
place to witness Indian worship and people-watch.
Kala Ghoda Bazaar
For three months, between November and January each year, street
musicians and performers of all kinds add to the colourful
atmosphere of Mumbai's Sunday street bazaars, held near the
Jehangir Art Gallery in the city's pedestrian plaza. The area
becomes a hive of activity and excitement between November and
January, with cultural performances and stalls selling a variety of
crafts, folk art and food, but the stretch has become such a hub of
cultural and artistic activity that it is now known as an art
precinct all year round.
The Kala Ghoda Art Precinct stretches from Regal Circle at the southern end of Mahatma Gandhi Road, to Mumbai University, which is further north on the same street. The attractions along this stretch include the Mumbai National Gallery of Modern Art, the Prince of Wales Museum, the Jehanqir Art Gallery, the Kala Ghoda Pavement Gallery (where talented young artists exhibit their work on railings set up along the pavement), the Museum Gallery, and Rampart Row (a restored heritage building packed with stores and restaurants). The area also boasts some of the city's most popular restaurants and is a great place to go shopping and eating-out.
Golden Temple of Amritsar
Admission: Free Open daily, from 6am to 2am
Considered one of the most beautiful temples in the world - and
the veritable heart of the Sikh religion - it's no wonder that
tourists come from all over the globe to see the Golden Temple of
Amritsar. Situated in the middle of a sacred lake fed by an
underground spring, the golden structure is a unique blend of Hindu
and Muslim architectural styles. Within the temple is the Adi
Grantha, the sacred scripture of the Sikhs, displayed on a
Visitors to the Golden Temple can enjoy the serene and spiritual atmosphere, with the sound of Sikh hymns accompanied by flutes, drums and stringed instruments. Next to the lake are the enormous pilgrims' dormitories; and at the gate is the information desk, where helpful and friendly staff will answer your questions and provide free pamphlets on the temple and Sikh religion.
The best time to visit the Golden Temple of Amritsar is actually at night, when the Palki Sahib ceremony takes place. Dozens of devotees act as a human conveyor belt to carry the Granth Sahib (a shrine containing the Adi Grantha) from the main shrine to the sanctum, where it is kept until the opening ceremony the following morning. Visitors may participate in the ceremony, taking their turn to shoulder the weight of the enormous shrine.
Visitors to the Golden Temple should be respectful of the Sikh culture. Smoking and alcohol is forbidden throughout the complex, and visitors must remove their shoes. Heads must be covered at all times - if you forget, don't worry, vendors will sell you bandanas as you near the temple, or else you can borrow a head covering from the pile kept at the entrance.
The Baga Beach holiday resort is a few miles south of Anjuna,
and is basically an extension of Calangute. Lying in the lee of a
rocky, wooded headland, the only difference between this far
northern end of the beach and its more congested centre is that the
scenery here is marginally more varied and picturesque, and the
beach less crowded. It is a good swimming beach but there are no
promising breaks for surfers. There are lots of other watersports
on offer though, and it is an active, fun beach where there is
usually a lot going on. Hawkers can be an irritation but no more
than on most other popular stretches of sand in Goa; a firm 'no'
usually does the trick.
Baga Beach has the best range of restaurants and liveliest nightlife in the area, with a number of popular restaurants, beach bars and clubs to choose from.
The small, relaxed town of Hampi - located in the state of
Karnataka, about 220 miles (350km) from Bengaluru, and about the
same distance from Panaji (in the neighbouring state of Goa) - not
only boasts one of the weirdest, most awe-inspiring landscapes in
the whole of India, but is also a fascinating historical site. The
capital of the once-great Vijayanagar Empire, the ruins of the
14th-century village and temple complex found in present-day Hampi
have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, as
impressive as these ruins are (especially the multi-tiered,
ornately-sculpted Virupaksha Temple), the grandstand attraction of
Hampi remains its natural landscape. A severe, desolate and
boulder-strewn wilderness, tempered by a slate-grey river
surrounded by lush groves of banana, mango and palm trees, you will
frequently find yourself at a loss for words to describe it
properly. Hampi might be slightly off the beaten track, but it is a
manageable excursion from Bengaluru and will deeply reward all
those who seek out its thoroughly singular charms. Hampi is a must
for rock-climbers and is considered the bouldering capital of
India, which is not surprising considering its rocky landscape.
Located on Kerala's southwestern coast, just 32 miles (50km)
from the state capital of Trivandrum, Varkala is one of those
tourist destinations that gets more and more popular each year, as
word of its stunning coastline and lively atmosphere gets out.
Varkala is considered a less-crowded, less-commercial alternative
to the beautiful Goa; although Varkala's main beach (Papanasam
Beach) cannot boast the white sand and towering palm trees of some
of its Goan counterparts, it is flanked by a steep and staggeringly
beautiful cliff-face. As all the tourist accommodation, restaurants
and shops are located on top of this cliff, overlooking the water,
it is almost a daily ritual in Varkala for life to come to a
stand-still at about sunset, and for everyone just to watch the sun
sink into the Arabian Sea. The beaches are less crowded than in Goa
and there are still many gems to be discovered in the area. In
between relaxing on the beach and shopping at the markets in town,
tourists can also take an enjoyable walk to the nearby
Janardanaswamy Temple, a 2,000-year-old structure. Varkala is also
a great centre for Ayurvedic medicine, and there are numerous
treatment and massage centres in the vicinity.
Once a peaceful fishing village - and then a haven for
hedonistic hippies - Calangute is now Goa's busiest and most
commercialised holiday resort, a 45-minute bus ride north of the
capital, Panaji. The road from the town to the beach is lined with
Kashmiri-run handicraft boutiques and Tibetan stalls selling
Himalayan curios and jewellery. The quality of the goods - mainly
Rajasthani, Gujarati and Karnatakan textiles - is generally high,
but haggle hard and don't be afraid to walk away (the same stuff
will crop up again and again). The Calangute beach is nothing
special, but is more than large enough to accommodate the huge
numbers of holiday visitors. To escape the hawkers, visitors should
head fifteen minutes or so south of the main beachfront area,
towards the rows of old wooden boats moored below the dunes. There,
teams of villagers haul in their nets at high tide, and fishermen
can be seen fixing their tack under bamboo shacks.
Calangute's bars and restaurants are mainly grouped around the entrance to the beach, and along Baga Road. As with most Goan resorts, the emphasis is firmly on seafood, though many places also offer vegetarian dishes, and western breakfasts feature prominently. Thanks to repeated crackdowns by the Goan police on parties and loud music, Calangute's nightlife is surprisingly tame, with most bars closing by 10pm, though there are some exceptions.
Colva is the oldest and most heavily-developed South Goan
holiday resort. The town itself is dotted with colonial-style
villas and ramshackle fishing huts, but the beachfront is crowded
and blighted with unimaginative concrete hotels, snack bars and
souvenir stalls. Indian tourists and local children mill around
this central area and foreigners are pestered by traders and
beggars. However, it is easy to steer clear of this central area:
within a few minutes' stroll from here the beach is spotless and
relatively quiet. Benaulim is only a 30-minute walk to the south,
still on Colva beach, and attracts a more upmarket clientele,
including British and Indian visitors on holiday. There are many
luxury resorts along the coastal stretch, and brightly-painted
wooden fishing boats litter the beach. The hawkers and touts here
are persistent, but in a good-humoured rather than aggressive way.
To escape completely, visitors can hire a bicycle and ride further
south along Colva beach, beyond Taj Exotica, which stretches for
miles with the only possible interruption likely to be a stray cow
wandering along the sand.
Restaurants line the beachfront at both Colva and Benaulim, and in general the food is of an excellent standard, and the atmosphere is much better than at the hotel restaurants. For the freshest fish, aim for the more popular restaurants.
The state of Himachal Pradesh's largest hill station, Dharamsala
is a gorgeous and deeply spiritual place. With a large Tibetan
population, the community centres around the teachings and
activities of Tenzin Gyatso - the 14th and current Dalai Lama - who
resides in Dharamsala for large portions of the year. Cool, alpine
Dharamsala has been attracting hordes of tourists for years: some
are drawn by its staunch and inspiring Buddhist culture; others by
the meditation, yoga, reiki and cooking classes on offer in the
area known as McLeod Ganj; and yet others simply come to enjoy its
considerable natural beauty. Hikers will be overawed by the trails
available to them to explore - the pick of the bunch being the walk
up to the summit of Triund, from where you can enjoy fine views of
the snow-capped Himalayas in the distance. Dharamsala is a popular
tourist haunt that has somehow managed to keep itself unspoiled and
retain its traditional outlook and charm; visitors to India who
find themselves overwhelmed by the smoggy, frenetic cities of the
plain, should retreat to Dharamsala for some rest and rejuvenation.
For anybody interested in Buddhism, this attraction is a must.
For years Palolem remained a secret holiday getaway to all but
the most independent traveller. Situated towards the southern tip
of Goa, twenty miles south of Margao, it has now been discovered -
but thankfully, due to strict urban planning restraints, tourism is
kept in check. Palolem's crescent-shaped bay is lined with a
beautiful white sand beach and backed with groves of coconut palms.
Either side of the bay is a rocky headland covered in thick black
forest, and offshore there is a tiny island whose only permanent
inhabitants are a colony of black-faced langur monkeys. Although
there aren't really any watersports facilities on the beach - the
vibe is more relaxed than active - you can take boat rides out into
the bay to see the dolphins and maybe even swim with them. The
beach is also lined with a selection of beach shacks and
bar-cum-restaurants serving up the daily catch and lots of other
kinds of meals and snacks. During December and January the beach
swells with day-trippers, who come to escape the more commercial
resorts. However, outside this peak season, Palolem returns to a
breezy, sedate pace, and one of the reasons it is so special is
because it is generally less crowded and much less commercial than
most beaches in Goa.
Kumbhalgarh is a massive Mewar fortress built in the 15th
century, with seven heavily fortified gateways and a perimeter wall
that extends a staggering 22 miles (36km); possibly the second
longest continuous wall in the world, the first being the Great
Wall of China. Inside this intimidating complex there are more than
360 temples (300 ancient Jain and the rest Hindu) in addition to
the main palace. The fortress has immense sentimental significance
for local inhabitants because it is the birthplace of Mewar's
legendary king, Maharana Pratap. Needless to say, one can spend
hours exploring this architectural and historical playground, and
those who enjoy climbing will find many opportunities. The views
from the many vantage points of this fortress are astounding.
Legend has it that the maharana who built Kumbhalgarh encountered some construction difficulties and consulted a spiritual advisor who decreed that a voluntary human sacrifice would enable the project. A volunteer was eventually found and the position of the decapitated head and body signalled where building should go forward. A shrine to this unknown volunteer can still be found in the main gate.
Kumbhalgarh is situated about 50 miles (82km) to the northwest of Udaipur and the drive will take about one and a half hours, making it a manageable and rewarding excursion. The fort is extremely well-maintained and the fact that it is a little remote ensures that there are seldom crowds, despite how astounding an attraction it is. There is a sound and light show in the evenings but it is conducted in Hindi.
Jallianwala Bagh is a sombre historical attraction; it is the
site of the April 13, 1919 Amritsar massacre, when hundreds of
innocents were gunned down by British troops. Thousands of men,
women and children had gathered peacefully in the Jallianwala Bagh
garden to celebrate the festival of Vaisakhi, but, as public
gatherings were illegal at the time, the British decided to make an
example of them: between 379 and 1,000 people were killed, and more
than 1,000 wounded in this tragedy. The Martyr's Well, which you
can still see at the site today, was a death trap because many
tried to leap into it to escape the bullets - 120 bodies were
pulled out of the well. The massacre was a turning point for
British colonial rule in India and, ultimately, a step towards the
The site is now a quiet and peaceful memorial garden and museum. The monument to the slain was built in 1961. The bullet holes on the walls and buildings surrounding the park are still clearly visible and serve as a harrowing reminder of the mass murder. Jallianwala Bagh is a moving and interesting addition to the itinerary of anybody exploring Amritsar that has an interest in history. It is located conveniently close to the Golden Temple.
Address: 30 K Dubash Marg, Kalaghoda Mumbai
Food Type: Asian
This diverse restaurant specialises in Japanese, Malaysian,
Indonesian and Balinese cuisine, and is a firm favourite when
dining out in Mumbai. Dishes such as oriental crab bisque, Nonya
bamboo chicken and Norwegian salmon flavoured with dill, lemon
butter and crisp seaweed are not to be missed. For those with a
sweet tooth, try the chocolate cigar with prune and Armagnac ice
cream. Reservations recommended.
Address: Level 2, Phoenix MarketCity, LBS Marg, Kurla Mumbai
Food Type: Indian
Serving traditional Rajasthani, Maharashtrian, Sindhi and
Kathiawadi Thali, Rajdhani is a vegetarian restaurant popular with
both locals and tourists. Traditional favourites such as roti and
are not to be missed. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Closed on Sundays.
Jimmy Boy Restaurant
Address: 11 Bank Street, Vikas Building, Fort Mumbai
Food Type: Parsi/Iranian
An unusual restaurant, Jimmy Boy Restaurant serves Farsi and
Iranian food, with favourites on the menu including the chicken
dhansak and chicken jardaloo, which are both specialities here and
probably the most flavourful dishes on the menu. This is a great
place to sample some of the subcontinent's lesser-known fare. Open
daily for lunch and dinner.
Address: Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda, Fort Area Mumbai
Food Type: Indian
Samovar's dining room is a long, narrow room with tables perched
against the windows; not necessarily the most traditional way of
dining, but don't let the dining room fool you. This restaurant,
mostly popular with tourists and sightseers taking in all that
Mumbai has to offer, prides itself on fast, efficient service and
tasty, home-style food. Try the boti rolls, which contain spiced
meat wrapped in chapattis. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and
dinner. Closed on Sundays. Credit cards not accepted.
Address: Birla Mansion, Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort Area Mumbai
Food Type: Seafood
Popular with Mumbai's elite, Trishna has a formidable
reputation, and prides itself on its seafood dishes. With a sister
restaurant in London, a visit to Trishna is a must while in Mumbai,
even if just to sample the flagship dish, the butter pepper garlic
king crab. Open daily for lunch and dinner (dinner only on
Sundays). Reservations essential.
Address: Hotel Broadway, 4/15 A Asaf Ali Rd, Central New Delhi Delhi
Food Type: North Indian
Appearing more like an odds-and-ends treasure trove than the
relaxed eatery that it is, Chor Bazaar (the 'thieves' market') is
adorned with unusual décor pieces such as matchboxes, antique combs
and ivory sandals, as well as an old jukebox. Menu favourites
include the Kashmiri specialty of
(lamb meatballs) with cardamom, and the Kashmiri
(thali) platter. Open daily for lunch and dinner;
Karim Hotel Restaurant
Address: 16 Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid Delhi
Food Type: Mughlai
Located in the heart of Old Delhi, the true home of Mughlai
cuisine, the Karim Hotel restaurant has an informal atmosphere and
dates back to the early 1900s. Authentic Mughlai dishes on the menu
(lamb stuffed with chicken, rice, egg and fruit), and
(chicken cooked in butter). Open daily for
breakfast, lunch and dinner; reservations recommended.
Address: Deer Park, Hauz Khas Village Delhi
Food Type: Mughlai
Experience Mughlai cuisine in style at the Park Balluchi
restaurant in Delhi's beautiful Deer Park. The restaurant's
turbaned waiters serve a feast of kebabs and spicy tandoor dishes,
(kebabs with chicken and prawns or mince) and
(tandoor grilled lamb). The restaurant has a
second branch located near Leisure Valley Park in the city centre.
Both are open daily for lunch and dinner; reservations
Address: N-18, N Block Market, Greater Kailash Delhi
Food Type: Mediterranean
The trendy Shalom restaurant serves delicious Lebanese and
Mediterranean cuisine in an upmarket, romantic setting. The
restaurant's tapas selection includes lemon, paprika and garlic
fish skewers or a Spanish asparagus and orange salad, while the
main menu features dishes such as Dubai duck (served in a lemon and
honey sauce, with apricot and cinnamon flavours). Be sure to leave
room for the decadent molten chocolate cake dessert! Open daily for
lunch and dinner; reservations recommended.
Address: Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg, Chanakyapuri Delhi
Food Type: Indian
For travellers who really want to splash out, Bukhara is the
only place to go. With a host of awards to its name, Bukhara has
been voted 'Best Indian Restaurant in the World' by the UK's
Restaurant Magazine. With dishes like dhal bukhara (tomato, ginger
and garlic simmered black lentils) and mouthwateringly delicious
tandoori prawns, it is easy to see why it comes so highly
recommended. The restaurant designed a selection of platters named
the Hillary Platter, the Presidential Platter and the Chelsea
Platter following a visit by the Clinton family in 2009. Open daily
for lunch and dinner, reservations are a must.
Address: Sahar Airport Rd, Andheri East, Mumbai Mumbai
Food Type: Indian
Serving up northwestern Indian dishes inspired by the cuisine
encountered by the British on the frontier in 1990, Peshawri is a
firm favourite with travellers looking for an upmarket restaurant
promising authentic Indian fare. The food is cooked in traditional
'tandoor' clay ovens and the ambience is friendly but
sophisticated. Open daily for lunch and supper.
Food poisoning is a risk in India: all water and ice should be regarded as contaminated, and visitors should drink only bottled water and ensure that the seal on the bottle is intact. Meat and fish should be regarded as suspect in all but the best restaurants, and should always be well cooked and served hot. Salads and unpeeled fruit should be avoided. Diarrhea is common among travellers to India and is best treated with re-hydration salts; however, if symptoms persist for more than two days visiting a private hospital is recommended.
Health facilities are adequate in the larger cities, but limited in rural areas. Travellers should have comprehensive medical insurance, and carry a standard first-aid kit complete with a course of general antibiotics.
Round pins and grounding pin.