Spain's northern industrial port city, Bilbao, is the political capital of the nationalistic Basque people who inhabit Spain's three northern provinces, an area known collectively as Euskadi. The city is not beautiful - the buildings are soot-stained and the Nervion River running through it is one of Spain's most polluted waterways, but Bilbao does have some surprises to offer visitors, and there are plenty of attractions in the surrounding countryside and around the coast on the Bay of Biscay which can be easily reached on excursions by rail or road.

The main attraction in the city is the controversial Guggenheim Museum, relatively new on the scene, having been opened in 1997. The city fathers regard this avant-garde building as the beginning of the city's revitalisation, which has also recently acquired a new metro system and airport terminal. Bilbao has some good beaches and a few scenic spots - a favoured picnic site is on Monte Archanda, north of the old town, accessible by funicular. Of the beaches Getxo is the favourite, particularly with surfers, and features a 100-year-old suspension bridge and some lively bars and nightclubs.

Guggenheim Museum

Address: 2 Abandoibarra Et. Bilbao

Admission: EUR10.50 (adults), children under 12 are free. Other concessions available Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 8pm (open Mondays between June and August)

Telephone: 94 435 90 80

Locals in Bilbao are divided on whether it is a 'beauty or a beast', but the bizarre multi-million dollar Guggenheim Museum, opened in 1997, has brought thousands of visitors flocking to the city to be awed or floored. The massive museum, designed by Frank Gehry has no right angles and resembles a metallic flower, clad in shiny titanium, sited in the former dockyard alongside the Nervion River. Inside, apart from breathtaking spaces, the museum houses the works of some important 20th century artists, including Picasso, Robert Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol, Willem de Koonig and Clyfford Still. There are also sections displaying the work of young Basque and Spanish artists, and rotating exhibits lent by the Guggenheim museums in New York and Venice.

Museo de Bellas Artes

Address: 2 Museo Plaza Bilbao

Admission: EUR5.50 (adults), children under 12 free, concessions EUR4 Tuesday to Sunday 10am and 8pm

Telephone: 94 439 6060

For a more mainstream artistic experience than that offered by the astonishing Guggenheim gallery, the Museo de Bellas Artes in the Plaza Museo fits the bill admirably with some valuable works on display behind an unassuming façade. The museum's impressive collection spans art from the 12th to 20th century, highlights being some excellent Flemish works from between the 15th and 17th centuries. There are also works by El Greco, Goya, Gauguin, Francis Bacon, Picasso and Velazquez. To the rear of the building is a sculpture garden.

Museo Vasco

Address: 4 Plaza Miguel de Unamuno Bilbao

Admission: EUR3, concessions available. Free for children under 10 and senior citizens Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 5pm, Sundays 11am to 2pm

Telephone: 94 415 5423

The Museo Vasco, also known as the Euskal Museoa or Basque Museum, is in the heart of the old quarter of the city, housed in a 17th century Jesuit cloister. The museum depicts Basque culture, history and ethnology, and its exhibits span a wide range of interests including: weaving, the blacksmith trade, pastoral life and maritime matters. The displays offer the chance to dip into Basque political and social life, using everything from model ships to reconstructions of rooms and gravestones.

City Hall

Address: Bilbao

Telephone: 94 445 2828 (Reservations)

Bilbao's elegant city hall in the Plaza Erkoreka Ernesto dates from 1892 and was designed by Joaquin Rucoba with a spire and magnificent façade featuring balconies, columns and a sweeping staircase. The highlight of the interior is the 'Arab Room', an opulently decorated chamber used for civil marriage ceremonies. Guided tours, lasting about an hour are available; these need to be booked in advance by phone.

San Sebastian

Address: Bilbao

The Basque region's most popular beach, La Concha, is to be found in the genteel resort city of San Sebastian, 62 miles (100km) east of Bilbao. The town became fashionable as a summer getaway during the reign of Queen Isabel when she took to holidaying there in 1845. Today the town hums with boutiques, surf-shops and nightclubs, but the elaborate boardwalk and grandiose historic mansions lend an air of sophistication. For a spectacular view of the sea and countryside ride the funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo, or opt for the opposite side of the bay where it is possible to stroll through shady woods to the summit of Monte Urgull, topped with a statue of Jesus blessing the city. The town's Museo de San Telmo, housed in a Dominican monastery, displays some interesting prehistoric Basque artefacts, and a few dinosaur skeletons. The house where Victor Hugo once lived is in the nearby charming fishing village of Pasajes de San Juan, which can be reached by ferry from San Sebastian.

Vitoria-Gasteiz

Address: Bilbao

British visitors are reassured by the presence of a statue of Wellington, the 'Iron Duke', standing on the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in the city of Vitoria-Gasteiz, 41 miles (66km) south of Bilbao. The statue commemorates Wellington's victory in battle here against Napoleon's forces. The main reason for visiting this Basque city, however, is to enjoy the impressive new contemporary art museum, and soak up some of the charm of this green urban enclave, packed with avenues and parks. There is also an old quarter, full of Renaissance palaces, most of which are now art galleries and museums. The city also has two Gothic cathedrals, one dating from the 12th century and one, modern but designed in Gothic style, still under construction.

Pamplona

Address: Bilbao

Hordes of tourists flock to this town in Navarre, Northern Spain, in early July each year for the Running of the Bulls, officially La Fiesta del Fermin. The festival, in honour of the city's patron saint, was made world famous by Ernest Hemingway in his novel 'The Sun Also Rises', and it has become Spain's most popular attraction. A bust of Hemingway stands outside Pamplona's bullring, where the 8-day extravaganza of dancing, dashing through the streets ahead of rampaging bulls, and drinking begins. The practice of driving bulls through the centre of Pamplona started in the 19th century as the most practical way to get them to the ring, and for many years the city authorities tried to prevent the practice of running with the bulls. Aside from the festival, though, Pamplona is worth a visit any time of year, boasting lush parks, a splendid Gothic cathedral, huge citadel and quaint old quarter. Pamplona is the capital of the province of Navarre, but its roots are Basque and a large section of its population are Basque nationalists.

San Fermin (Running of the Bulls)

Where: The town of Pamplona in the north-eastern part of the country,Bilbao

When: 6 - 14 July every year

The annual festival honouring Saint Fermin is most famous for its Running of the Bulls, which takes place every morning throughout the celebrations. Ernest Hemmingway brought the festival to world attention with his novel The Sun Also Rises, and millions of brave visitors have since ventured to join in the all-day-and-night merriment.

O Grove Seafood Festival

Where: O Grove Town Hall, Galicia,Bilbao

When: October 2010 TBA

Come October, the north-western province of Spain grows (as does its reputation) into the place to be for seafood in Europe. Hundreds of thousands come by to enjoy the succulent flavours and delights available.