Explore San Juan

San Juan Travel Guide

The capital city of Puerto Rico, San Juan, is one of the busiest ports in the Caribbean and a third of all Puerto Ricans live here. Nearly every visitor to the island arrives at San Juan, many on cruise liners. The port is the largest home-based cruise port in the world, hosting 28 vessels with more being added to the list each year.

San Juan is divided into three distinct districts: Old San Juan, the historic walled city, the beach and resort area and the outlying suburbs. Tourists are concerned mainly with Old San Juan, the site of most restaurants, shops, entertainment venues and the beaches. The old city is linked to the new by a series of modern highways, leading to the Condado beach front, which is reminiscent of Florida's Miami Beach with its high-rise hotels and apartment blocks.

It is not only tourism that keeps the financial mills grinding in San Juan. The city is an important centre for petroleum and sugar refining, brewing and distilling and the manufacturing of cement, pharmaceuticals, metal products and tobacco products. In the midst of all the hustle and bustle there are numerous attractions to amuse, entertain and interest the many tourists, and the city is a perfect base for exploring the rest of what this small Caribbean island has to offer.

Old San Juan

Address: San Juan

This area, encompassing about seven blocks, dates back about 500 years to the Spanish occupation when it served as a military stronghold that even repulsed Sir Francis Drake. The original cobbles on the streets are blue-tinged, and were originally ballast on the Spanish ships. The ancient stones set off the more than 400 restored 16th and 17th century Spanish colonial buildings that fill Old San Juan and draw thousands of tourists to walk the narrow, steep streets every day. The old town is enclosed in amazingly thick, high walls and features numerous attractive plazas bearing sculptures and memorials.

Spanish Forts

Address: San Juan

Admission: US$3 (adults), concessions available Forts open daily 9am to 6pm.

Telephone: 729 6960

The mighty six-level fortress of San Felipe del Morro, built in 1540, towers 140 feet (43m) above the sea on San Juan Bay, its 18-foot thick (5m) walls having proved a worthy defence against invasion. The largest fortification in the Caribbean, it is a maze of tunnels, dungeons, barracks, lookouts and ramps, offering spectacular views from atop its ramparts. Also in Norzagaray Street, Old San Juan, is El Morro's partner in defending the city, Castillo San Cristobal, built in the 17th century to a confusing and intricate modular design.

La Fortaleza

Address: Fortaleza Street, Old San Juan San Juan

Admission: Free Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm.

Telephone: 729 6960

The Fortaleza was built in 1540 as a fortress to guard the entrance to the San Juan harbour, but later became the official Governor's residence. During succeeding centuries the original structure has been remodelled and expanded, with a neoclassical façade being added in 1846 to leave the building with its palatial aspect. The current governor of Puerto Rico is in residence - the 170th Governor to live in the Fortaleza.

Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

Address: Cristo Street San Juan

Admission: Daily tours from 8.30am to 4pm. Regular services are held

Telephone: 722 0861 or 722 1709

San Juan's Cathedral was originally built in 1521 by Puerto Rico's first Spanish bishop as a thatched wooden church, but was destroyed in a hurricane in 1526. The current medieval structure, built from the stone brought in from inland quarries by horsepower, dates from 1540, although extensive renovations and reconstruction was carried out in 1917. The cathedral features Doric columns and elliptical vaults, and contains the marble tomb of the island's first governor.

La Casa Blanca

Address: San Sebastian Street, Old San Juan San Juan

Admission: US$2 (adults), US$1 (children) Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 12pm and 1pm to 4.30pm. Guided tours by appointment Tuesday to Friday

Telephone: 724 4102

The family of Puerto Rico's first governor, Ponce de Leon, whose descendants inhabited it for 250 years, built the historic homestead of Casa Blanca in 1523. It was subsequently taken over by the Spanish and then United States military. Today the mansion house contains two museums. A small section is dedicated to artefacts associated with the Taino Indians, while the rest of the house depicts the life of those who lived there through the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.

Casa del Libro

Address: 255 Cristo Street San Juan

Admission: Free Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 4.30pm

Telephone: 723 0354

The 18th century mansion known as Casa del Libro houses a vast collection of rare sketches, illustrations, ancient manuscripts and books, some dating from before the 16th century. The museum's most prized possessions are two royal mandates signed by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain in 1493 regarding the provisioning of Christopher Columbus's fleet for his second voyage to the New World. This was the voyage during which Puerto Rico was discovered.

University Campus

Address: Rio Piedras San Juan

Admission: Museum open Monday to Friday, 8am to 4.30pm and weekends 11am to 5pm. Gardens open daily 6am to 6pm.

Telephone: 764 0000 ext 2452 (museum); 763 4408 (gardens)

The University of Puerto Rico campus in the Rio Piedras offers two attractions for visitors. The University Museum contains archaeological and historical exhibits and holds monthly art exhibitions. The Botanical Gardens in the grounds of the University are a living laboratory displaying the native flora of Puerto Rico, containing more than 200 species of tropical and sub-tropical plants.

Museo de Arte

Address: 299 De Diego Avenue, Santurce San Juan

Admission: US$6 (adults), US$3 (children) Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday 11am to 6pm.

Telephone: 977 6277 ext. 2290

Puerto Rico's showcase art gallery opened just a few years ago at a cost of millions of dollars. The gallery is housed in a former city hospital in Santurce and offers a permanent and visiting exhibition. The aim is to highlight the island's heritage through the work of local artists, such as Francisco Oller, who studied in France with Cézanne, and Jose Campeche, a late 18th century Classical painter. The museum has been described as a 'living textbook of Puerto Rico', spanning the centuries through the medium of art.

Arecibo Ionospheric Observatory

Address: Arecibo San Juan

Admission: $6 (adults); $4 (children) Open daily from 9am to 4pm in June, July, December and January. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays in the remaining months

Telephone: 878 2612

America's ears and eyes are focused on the stars from the island of Puerto Rico. In the northwest mountains of the island about 90 minutes drive west of San Juan, among the Karst Country hills, is one of the most important astronomical research facilities on earth, the Arecibo Ionospheric Observatory. Its massive dish is larger in area than a dozen football fields and is sited in a sinkhole, aimed at the heavens and tuned to detect the slightest sounds emitted from the farthest stars. This is the home base for NASA's 'SETI' (Search for Extra-Terrestrial Intelligence) project and as such holds great fascination for visitors. A Visitors Centre is equipped with interactive exhibits to demonstrate how the huge structure works. Visitors can hike to the viewing platform to view the vast tiled dish.

Rio Camuy Cave Park

Address: Route 129 San Juan

Admission: US$12 (adults), US$7 (children) Wednesday to Sunday 8am to 3.30pm; closed when raining

Telephone: 898 3100

Well worth a day trip from San Juan is the incredible 268-acre Rio Camuy Cave Park, two hours south-west of the city. The park is the site of miles of subterranean caverns that were carved out of the limestone by the Camuy River more than a million years ago. Only seven miles (11km) of the caves have yet been fully explored, but 16 entrances have been discovered to what is believed to be the world's largest cave network. Well-maintained walking trails lead visitors down 200 feet (61m) into a fern-filled ravine to explore the cathedral-like caverns. Guided tours are available through one cave and two sinkholes, where you will see stalactites, stalagmites and plenty of bats. The caverns also contain a unique species of blindfish. The park has picnic areas, walking trails, food outlets, an exhibition hall and a souvenir shop.

Luis Muñoz Rivera Park

Address: Between aves. Muñoz Rivera and Ponce de León San Juan

Admission: Free Open daily

Telephone: 787 721 6133

Named in honour of Puerto Rican statesman Luis Muñoz Rivera, and featuring plenty of wide open space, picnic areas, walkways and even a small children's playground, the Luis Muñoz Rivera Park is the perfect place to take the kids for a day of fun in the sun, especially those who have been cooped up on board a cruise ship. Pack a picnic or simply enjoy the fresh air and scenery along the tree-lined paths, decorated artistically with art and mosaics.

Camuy River Cave Park

Address: Arecibo San Juan

Admission: Open Wednesday to Sunday from 8:30am to 4pm. Last tour departs 3:30pm

Telephone: (787) 898 3100

Children will feel like they are in an Indiana Jones movie when they visit the magnificent Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy (Camuy River Cave Park), a large network of natural limestone caves and waterways which can be explored by trolley. The caverns and underground tunnels were created over a million years ago by the tropical Río Camuy (Camuy River) which is the third longest underground river in the world and is home to a unique species of fish that is totally blind. Only three crater-like sink holes and two caves are open to the public which are reached by a guided trolley that descends into a sinkhole lined with dense tropical vegetation. Kids will love the spacious grounds of the park, which include a cafeteria, picnic area, gift shop, walking trails, exhibition hall, and theatre.

San Sebastian Street Festival

Where: The streets of San Sebastian,San Juan

When: 16 - 19 January 2010

The street festival is a carnival of colour featuring live music, food stalls, fairground rides and processions of flamboyant Puerto Rican culturama.

Casals Festival

Where: Centro de Bellas Artes Luis A. Ferré,San Juan

When: 20 February to 13 March 2010

The Casals Festival celebrates classical music each year at the Centro de Bellas Artes Luis A Ferré in San Juan. This festival was established in 1956 by the famous Spanish cellist, Pablo Casals. Features of the event include pieces by renown international performers such as the New York Philharmonic and Boston Baroque, as well as local favourites Orquesta Sinfónica de Puerto Rico.

Heineken Jazzfest

Where: Tito Puente Amphitheater,San Juan

When: May 2010 TBA

The Heineken Jazzfest is an annual Latin jazz festival held at the Tito Puente Amphitheater in San Juan. The island's rich musical culture is celebrated here through salsa and merengue, with past performances by Ahmad Jamal, the Pat Metheny Trio and the Dave Valentin Quintet.

Aguaviva

Address: 364 Calle Fortaleza San Juan

Food Type: Seafood

Aguaviva's cool, turquoise décor is very laid-back, in stark contrast to its chaotic atmosphere. The stained-glass aquaviva (jellyfish) replicas are intriguing, best contemplated over oysters and a stiff drink from the bar. An open kitchen serves delectable cuisine including a marlin and garlic ceviche (appetiser), and a seafood tower made up of fried oysters, coco-flavoured shrimp and fried octopus. The grilled mahi-mahi with smoky shrimp, salsa and yucca is also fantastic, as is the paella with seafood and pork sausage. Reservations required.

Augusto's Cuisine

Address: 801 Ponce de León Ave San Juan

Food Type: French

This elegant and glamorous restaurant flaunts its European flair in a portentous grey and green dining room within the Hotel Excelsior, Miramar. Fresh ingredients are used to create indulgent offerings such as creamy corn and oyster soup, an exquisite lobster risotto or medallions of veal with foie gras and Madeira sauce. The wine list is also outstanding.

Dragonfly

Address: 364 Calle Fortaleza San Juan

Food Type: International

Dragonfly's décor is reminiscent of an old San Francisco bordello with beaded curtains, fringed lamps and gilded mirrors. Their trademark drink is the 'Dragon Punch', often accompanied by live Latin jazz performances. The plantain chips, chicharrónes (pork rinds) and spicy crab cakes are easily followed by delicious red snapper or grouper, while the pumpkin and bean selection is quite formidable. For those with bigger appetites, the barbecued lamb shank is a must! Reservations required.

Parrot Club

Address: 363 Calle Fortaleza San Juan

Food Type: Caribbean

The Parrot Club is found in a stately 1902 building and occasionally hosts local dignitaries in its ambient dining hall. The courtyard tables are accompanied by live music among potted ferns, orchids and palms. This bistro and bar blends Puerto Rican cuisine with Spanish, African and Taíno flavours. Halibut, salmon and mahi-mahi form part of the ceviche (appetiser) menu and the criolla-style flank steak is superb for a main course, as is the tuna with rum and orange-essence sauce. A favoured drink is their trademark 'Parrot Passion'. Closed for two weeks in September.

With its concentration of bars, clubs, salsa cafés and casinos, visitors to San Juan will find there is something to suit their partying and entertainment needs on just about any night. As in most Latin cities, the nightlife only really gets going late but when it does there's a good chance you will see in the dawn. Being a major cruise port, much of the nightlife is suited to tourists looking for a bit of Caribbean flavour and fun. Start off by watching the sunset with a freshly made Mojito or piña colada (the latter of which was invented at the Hilton Hotel right here in San Juan) at a beach bar in this sultry city before heading out to the Old Town to enjoy a leisurely dinner at one of the many stylish and trendy restaurants. Locals like to look sharp when going out in San Juan so don't be afraid to throw your favourite party outfit on before hitting the town for a night out. Most of the nightlife is situated in the Old Town, while San Sebastian Street is a major hotspot dotted with pulsating clubs, bars and discos. El Batey's on Calle del Cristo in the Old Town is a favourite for a night of drinking, pool shooting and mingling, while the Lobby Lounge fires up the dancefloor with live bands jamming salsa and meringue beats and even offers dance lessons for visitors keen on shaking their hips. On Sebastian Street head to Nono's for a bit of people watching on the strip, or El Patio de Sam, a popular hangout for locals and tourists alike, while for some salsa and tropical music, Rumba is place to be. Those who can't wait for the party to get started should stop by the La Rumba Party Cruise, a two-level minicruiser that is more often than not moored to a point near San Juan's cruise pier number 1, a popular hangout for tourists and cruise passengers looking for a steamy night out.
Shopping in San Juan is an exotic and often cost-effective venture, with the streets of Old Town (especially Calle San Francisco and Calle del Cristo) being the most popular destinations. Most stores can be reached via the Old Town Trolley and are generally open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, while some in Old San Juan are also open on Sundays. Malls in San Juan are open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 9pm, and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. Only U.S. citizens don't pay duty (5.5%) on goods purchased in Puerto Rico.The best shopping mall is Plaza Las Américas, in Hato Rey, which boasts over 200 upmarket shops. Local handicrafts include needlework, ceramics, hammocks and papier-mâché arts, while paintings and sculptures also make good souvenirs; wooden carvings, or santos (saints), are also popular. These goods are available from Galería Botello, Olé or Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts. Sought-after antique lace products, such as mundillos (tatted fabrics) and torchon (beggar's lace), as well as entrados and puntilla (lace bands), can be found at Linen House.One of the best coffees in the world, Puerto Rico's Alto Grande is available from speciality stores such as Spicy Caribbee. An ancient building in Old Town serves as both a laundromat and art gallery, with paintings, etchings and photographs displayed (and for sale) above the coin-operated laundry machines; art exhibitions are also hosted here. Caretas (papier-mâché masks) worn at local carnivals make a great souvenir for those with a morbid fascination and can be purchased from La Calle.
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