The capital of Portugal has experienced a renaissance in recent years and has reclaimed its rightful place as the 'golden city' of southern Europe. After slumbering for decades, the city's modern, vibrant and cosmopolitan identity is today much similar to that which it enjoyed in the 15th and 16th centuries during the age of the great discoverers, when Lisbon was the centre of trade with the East and the starting point for maritime exploration of the globe.

The city fathers of Lisbon elected to invest in some rejuvenation in the 1990s, and this ongoing focus on the future has made the most of the city's attributes and attractions, both old and new. Infrastructure has also been improved, with additions like the impressive Vasco da Gama Bridge across the River Tagus, which links the city's airport to a network of national motorways and has facilitated access to other parts of Portugal. There is also a new showcase railway hub, the Gare de Oriente, which is the pride of a new modern suburb on the east bank of the Tagus, creating an even better link between Lisbon and the rest of Europe.

While much is new, there is plenty of the old left to charm visitors, giving the metropolis a slightly provincial air. The delightful, picturesque medieval section of Alfama skirts the city's Sao Jorge castle, and historic wooden trams ply noisily up and down steep hills past art deco cafes and mosaic-decorated pavements. Many of the relics of the city's golden age were destroyed in an earthquake in 1755, but some survived and are popular tourist attractions, complemented now by modern sights, like the futuristic Oceanarium.

Within easy reach of the city are the sandy beaches of several coastal resorts, such as Costa da Caparica, Estoril and Cascais, as well as the forested areas of Sintra and attractions like the extraordinary Mafra monastery. The mood of Lisbon is light and bright, confident, fresh and avante garde, ready to welcome the world to the doorstep as one of the great capitals of Europe.

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Address: Lisbon

Admission: EUR5, concessions available Daily, 9am to 6pm (November to February) and 9am to 9pm (March to October)

Telephone: 218 800 620

The walls of Saint George's Castle, sitting atop a hill guarding the Tagus, date from the Moorish occupation in the 10th century, but the site has been a fortress for centuries, possibly from 500 AD. The castle is regarded as the cradle of Lisbon, and today it provides a panoramic view of the River Tagus and the Alfama medieval district, which is spread out below it. Visitors can walk the esplanades and climb the ramparts. A multimedia show is available during the day which brings alive the history of Lisbon. The castle grounds are planted with olive, pine and cork trees and provide a pleasant spot to relax.

Alfama

Address: Lisbon

The oldest part of Lisbon, the Alfama quarter sprawls down the hillside from below the Castelo de Sao Jorge, retaining much of the traditional colour and atmosphere from the days when it was the ancient seat of the Saracens. Along the narrow cobblestone alleyways are taverns and street markets, interspersed with close-packed houses still occupied by stevedores, fishmongers and sailors. At the edge of the Alfama, Lisbon's renowned flea market, the Feira da Ladra, is held in the Campo de Santa Clara every Tuesday and Saturday. The Alfama is also full of historic buildings and churches, which are well worth exploring. Some of the buildings display fading coats of arms, which bear testimony to the fact that the Alfama was once home to aristocrats. At night the Alfama takes on a more mysterious aspect with street lanterns throwing shadows on the medieval walls, and it is advisable to avoid the area after dark in favour of the Bairro Alto café and nightclub district.

Sé de Lisboa

Address: Lisbon

Admission: Free Daily, 10am to 7pm.

Telephone: 21 886 6752

Although this cathedral in Largo da Se in the Alfama district is not outwardly appealing, it was the first church in Lisbon, built on the site of a Saracen mosque after the city was captured by the Crusaders in the 12th century. Inside, this ancient church features some treasures, like the font where St Anthony of Padua was baptised in 1195, and numerous notable relics, images and icons.

Calouste Gulbenkian Museum

Address: Avenue de Berna 45A Lisbon

Admission: EUR4, concessions available. Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5.45pm

Telephone: 21 782 3000

Gulbenkian was an Armenian oil magnate who died in 1955 having put together one of the world's finest private art collections. The collection is now housed in a modern centre where the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation sponsors a host of cultural and performing arts projects, and has a rotating exhibition of works by Portuguese and foreign artists. The Gulbenkian collection itself covers Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities, Islamic ceramics and textiles, Syrian treasures, Chinese ceramics, Japanese prints and lacquerware and European medieval illuminated manuscripts. The collection is so vast and varied as to be breathtaking. Among the paintings are two Rembrandts, a Rubens and a Renoir.

Bairro Alto

Address: Lisbon

The Bairro Alto district (literally the Upper City) is, like the Alfama, an historic enclave dating from 1513, which is reached in a novel way via the Santa Justa Elevator (a structure reminiscent of the Eiffel tower in Paris) from the lower city. The colourful district resounds to the calls of vendors and fishmongers, and the windows and balconies are festooned with laundry and bird cages. At night the area comes alive with some of the finest fado cafes in the city, along streets lit by Victorian lanterns. Fado is the famous brand of music and dance brought to Portugal by African slaves in the 19th century, characterised by songs of sadness and despair, and there is no better place in Portugal to experience this musical genre than in the Bairro Alto of Lisbon.

Monument to the Discoveries

Address: Lisbon

Admission: Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30am to 6pm.

Telephone: 21 303 1950

One of the most famous sights in Lisbon is the imposing Padrão dos Descobrimentos, situated on the riverbank in the Avenida de Brasilia in the district of Belem and designed to commemorate the Portuguese Age of Discovery. Belem, where the Tagus meets the sea, is the point from which the maritime explorers of yore set forth in their sailing ships to discover the world. The monument was unveiled in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator in 1460, the monarch who was largely responsible for Portugal's role in world exploration during the 15th and 16th centuries. The massive monument takes the form of a caravel with Prince Henry at the prow, backed by images of renowned mariners, royal patrons and others who participated in the golden age of discovery.

Tower of Belem

Address: Avenida de Brasilia Lisbon

Admission: EUR4 (adults), free for children under 14. Concessions available Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm (October to April), 10am to 6.30pm (May to September)

Telephone: 21 362 0034

The famous Tower of Belem is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is one of Lisbon's most photographed landmarks because of the decoration on its exterior. The outer walls are adorned with a stone-carved rope and beautiful openwork balconies, along with Moorish watchtowers and battlements shaped like shields. The tower was built in the 16th century to serve as a fortress in the middle of the River Tagus.

Parque das Nacoes

Address: Avenue D. João II, Lote Lisbon

Admission: Oceanarium: EUR10.50 (adults), EUR5.25 (children 4-12) Oceanarium: daily 10am to 8pm (until 7pm in winter)

Lisbon's exhibition park was upgraded and renamed for the Expo '98 world exposition, which revitalised the city and brought international tourists and interest flooding in. The site is now worthy of a full day's sightseeing, featuring several attractions, not least of which is the Lisbon Oceanarium with its 15,000 living examples of marine life. The main tank holds enough water to fill four Olympic-sized swimming pools, and is viewed from two floors through curved glass panels that provide a 180-degree view. Another popular diversion is the Virtual Reality Pavilion, which showcases the Portuguese age of discovery. Other attractions include a science centre, cable car, the Vasco da Gama Tower and numerous bars and restaurants offering Portuguese cuisine.

Fatima

Address: Lisbon

In 1917 the Virgin Mary allegedly appeared above an oak tree and spoke to three peasant children in the valley of Cova da Iria, 88 miles (142km) north of Lisbon. The children claimed to have seen the apparition on five different occasions, and the spot has now become one of the great pilgrimage shrines of the world, known as Fatima. Between May and October the 13th day of every month is pilgrimage day, when hundreds of the faithful gather in a square twice the size of St Peter's in Rome before the Chapel of the Apparitions. The original oak tree is gone, but has been replaced by a simple white column inside a basilica, which is flanked by statues of the saints.

Setúbal

Address: Lisbon

Telephone: 265 539 120 (Setúbal Tourist Office)

A popular touring destination 25 miles (40km) south of Lisbon is Setúbal, one of Portugal's oldest cities, renowned for producing the most delicious muscadel wine in the world. The city is also the centre of Portugal's sardine industry and has been a fish-salting centre since the 1st century. White mounds of sea salt drying in the sun are a familiar part of the local landscape. There are some outstanding beaches near the city and some pretty countryside dotted with orange groves, orchards and vineyards.

Oceanario de Lisboa (Lisbon Oceanarium)

Address: Esplanada d. Carlos I Lisbon

Admission: EUR11 (adults) and EUR5.50 (children under 12). Concessions available Daily, 10am to 8pm (summer) and 10am to 7pm (winter)

Telephone: 21 891 7002

Marketed as the second best aquarium in the world, the world-class Lisbon Oceanarium is the most impressive achievement of EXPO '98, which used to be an abandoned waterfront. The centrepiece of the stone and glass building is the 1.3-million gallon (5-million litre) holding tank and the Oceanarium consists of four distinct ecosystems that replicate the Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, and Antarctic oceans, each featuring the aboveground birds, amphibians, and reptiles associated with those waters. Otters splash and dive in the warmer Pacific waters, while penguins shuffle around in their tuxedos in the Antarctic section. This attraction is one that the Portuguese nation is proud of and is an absolute must-see for the whole family.

Museu de Marinha (Maritime Museum)

Address: Praça do Império Lisbon

Admission: EUR4 (adult) and EUR2 (6 - 18 years), free for children under 6. Concessions available. 10am to 5pm (October to April) and 10am to 6pm (May to September); closed Mondays.

Telephone: 21 362 0019

With such maritime icons as Vasco de Gama and Bartolomeu Dias, its no wonder that Portugal's Maritime Museum is one of the best in Europe, evoking a sense of what it was like when the victorious Portuguese dominated the high seas. Visitors can marvel at the hundreds of models of 15th- to 19th-century sailing ships, merchant marine vessels, fishing boats and pleasure boats as well as a full range of Portuguese naval uniforms, including one worn at a Mozambique military outpost in 1896.

Colombo Amusement Park

Address: Centro Colombo, Lusíada Avenue. Lisbon

Telephone: 217 113 636

Kids will love the indoor amusement park at the Colombo Shopping Centre, happily entertained by taking rides on the roller coaster, playing video games, going bowling and racing go-carts. The centre also boasts a vast selection of cinemas, restaurants and shops for families to enjoy together.

Vasco da Gama Aquarium

Address: Rua Direita do Dafundo Lisbon

Admission: EUR3 (adult), EUR1.50 (6-17), free for children under 6 Daily 10am to 6pm

Telephone: 214 196 337

The Vasco da Gama Aquarium is a great attraction for children in Lisbon. This aquarium is home to cute little seals with ears (otariids), which all kids will love to see. As well as its wonderful collection of live fish and sea life, there are also preserved water birds, fish and mammals from King Carlos' oceanographic expeditions on display.

Calouste Gulbenkian Planetarium

Address: Praça do Império, Belém Lisbon

Admission: EUR4 (adults), EUR2 (10-18s), free for children 6-9. Children under 6 only admitted on Sunday mornings. Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm

Telephone: 213 620 002

Older kids are enthralled by a visit to the Calouste Gulbenkian Planetarium. Here they are invited to explore the universe and its bounty of astronomical wonders. The planetarium hosts astronomical shows daily, offering an entertaining and educational experience for young minds.

Lisbon Marathon

Where: ,Lisbon

When: 6 December 2009

The Lisbon Marathon is attracting more and more runners each year as its reputation extends as one of the best marathons in the world, primarily because of the beautiful city in which it is run but also because of the high level of organisation. Crowds gather to cheer the runners on as they prepare to start the full marathon or the half marathon. The race starts in the Praça do Comércio and does three circular routes, east, west and north, each time returning to the start point.

Carnival

Where: Parque Nações,Lisbon

When: 12 - 16 February 2010

The Rio Carnival may be the most famous in the world but it all started here in Portugal's capital. Even though today the Brazilian infused mega-carnival on the other side receives most of the international attention, the Lisbon Carnival, a celebration of the end of winter, is still a major event on the city's calendar. The entrudo is the highlight of the festival, closing on the last day, and processions of floats make their way down the colourful streets while jugglers and masked celebrators join in the cacophony of music and cheering. The focal point of the festival is in Parque Nações but parties are celebrated all along the coast.

Great Orchestras of the World

Where: Coliseu dos Recreios,Lisbon

When: November to April annually

Featuring various internationally renowned conductors and soloists, the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation presents its Grandes Orquestras Mundiais (Great Orchestras of the World) series in Lisbon's Coliseu dos Recreios. The series includes performances by the BBC Symphony Orchestra (2 November); Mariinsky Theatre Symphony Orchestra from St Petersburg (17 January); Philadelphia Orchestra (4 February); Gustav Mahler Youth Orchestra (21 April); and the Simón Bolívar Youth Orchestra (25 April).

Estoril Open

Where: Estadio Nacional,Lisbon

When: 1 - 9 May 2010

With almost EUR530,000 in prize money, the ATP/WTA Estoril Open begins the clay court tennis season. The first two days are qualifying rounds, after which the main draw takes place. Tickets are available online or from the Pavilhão Atlântico, as well as from FNAC or El Corte Inglés stores and free transport to the stadium is available from Entrecampos, Amoreiras, Cais do Sodré and Belém.

Lisbon Village Festival

Where: Various,Lisbon

When: 4 - 12 June 2010

Divided into three main categories, and held at various venues around the city, the Lisbon Village Festival showcases music, arts and film for the digital generation. The three main areas are the VIDCF film competition, which awards prizes in various categories and showcases films from Poland and Japan, among other special screenings, Village Art, which features contemporary digital art exhibits, and Village Lounge, which is where the DJs and VJs entertain directors, actors, press and visitors.

Lisbon Book Fair

Where: Edward VII Park,Lisbon

When: 30 April to 17 May 2010

The open-air book fair in Edward VII Park (Parque Eduardo VII) has been a popular event on Lisbon's calendar since the 1930s. It offers visitors wonderful browsing opportunities through the dusty covers of old books, to new reads and comic books.

Casa Nostra

Address: Travessa do Poço da Cidade 60, Bairro Alto Lisbon

Food Type: Italian

This trendy restaurant is hidden by an old, unambiguous exterior and home to a stylish yet laid-back atmosphere. All the pastas on the menu are homemade, with delicious options such as fettuccine al mascarpone (fettuccine with cream cheese) and spaghetti with Portuguese clams. The Sicilian-style tiramisu is exquisite! Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday lunch only and closed on Mondays. Reservations recommended.

Kais

Address: Rua da Cintura-Santos, City Centre Lisbon

Food Type: International

Kais bar and restaurant is set beautifully on an esplanade by the river and has a rich, wooden interior and warm atmosphere. The menu offers superb cuisine including shrimp in champagne sauce, lamb chops marinated in wine and garlic and a delicious lobster risotto. For dessert, the saffron crème brulée is outstanding. Open Monday to Saturday for dinner. Closed on Sundays and the first two weeks in August. Reservations recommended.

Gambrinus

Address: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23 Lisbon

Food Type: International

Founded in 1936 and decorated in rich, warm tones offset by stained glass windows and a beamed cathedral ceiling, Gambrinus offers some of the best shellfish and seafood in Lisbon. The menu features varied and unusual cuisine with dishes such as partridge casserole, Chicken Cafreal and smoked swordfish. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.

Comida de Santo

Address: Calçado Engenheiro Miguel Pais 39 Lisbon

Food Type: Brazilian

With only 12 tables available, the very trendy and first all-Brazilian restaurant in Lisbon, Comida de Santo, lends a New World flavour with oversized panels depicting jungle scenes. The potent caipirinha (aguardiente cocktail with limes and sugar) is a great way to kick things off and the feijoada (meat-and-bean stew) or vatapá (peppery shrimp) are highly recommended. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Bookings essential.

Espalha Brasas

Address: Armazém 9 Lisbon

Food Type: Portuguese

A firm favourite with Lisbon locals, a weather-beaten wooden statue of a nude man perched beside the staircase greets guests as this trendy restaurant. Espalha Brasas is comfortably cluttered with a soft candlelight glow and a display of all the fresh seafood and meats available and grilled to perfection. The codfish stuffed with prawns and spinach is highly recommended. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner (September to July) and daily for lunch and dinner (August). Booking advised.

New Wok

Address: Rua Capelo 24 Lisbon

Food Type: Asian

This is one of the trendiest restaurants in Lisbon and is the place to be seen, where the angular and minimalist décor is something you'd expect to find in London or Rome. A large window allows guests a view into the kitchen where the busy chefs are preparing such popular dishes as salmon teriyaki and pad thai with chicken, shrimp and tamarind sauce, amongst other wok and noodle dishes. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Bookings recommended.

Doca Peixe

Address: Armazém 14 Lisbon

Food Type: Seafood

Meaning 'Fish Dock' in Portuguese, Doca Peixe restaurant serves some of the best quality fish and shellfish in Lisbon, which can be seen swimming in the aquarium at the entrance. Fish can be char-grilled, cooked in salt or baked and the flagship dish is codfish cooked with clams and flavoured with coriander. The grilled platter of shellfish comes highly recommended. Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner. Booking advisable.

Nood

Address: Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 20, Chiado Lisbon

Food Type: Asian

Set in a modern and minimalist canteen, Nood is categorised somewhere between noodle bar and sushi restaurant, offering a great selection of Asian-inspired cuisine. The menu features gyoza (Asian pastries), yaki udon (Japanese noodles) and yakitori (grilled chicken on skewers). Don't miss the signature Nood ice-cream with chocolate and wasabi for dessert! Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.

Via Graça

Address: Rua Damasceno Monteiro 9B Lisbon

Food Type: Portuguese

With panoramic views of the Castelo de São Jorge fortifications and the Basilica da Estrêla, the romantically lit interior of Via Graça is both stylish and discreet. The menu offers a selection of traditional Portuguese food including roast duck with Setúbal wine, and stuffed fillet of sole served with shrimp. Open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner all week, reservations recommended.

Alcântara Café

Address: Rua Maria Luisa Holstein, 15 Lisbon

Food Type: Café

Set in a building that was originally a derelict printing plant, Alcântara Café is a trendy and stylish restaurant offering modern, spicy cuisine. Try the rillettes of salmon or perhaps the Portuguese platter of the day - sometimes it holds fried bacalhau (codfish) or even feijoada (traditional Trás-os-Montes bean and meat stew). Open for dinner every night, reservations recommended.